I did find those photographs of repairs that Drew posted very disconcerting by the amount of original stock wood they removed. IMHO that amount of wood removal puts pay to any further repairs in the future, I have always been in favor of "the least done soonest mended. I am more in favor of if you have to put some type of splint support in a gun stock it should be as small as possible and giving as much strength and support to the repair but reversible in the future may be. So my go to materials are Brass and stainless steel both add strength without adding bulk with stainless steel having the the least bulk of all.
I would start by opening the crack the best way I could in the photograph is a toolmakers clamp used in reverse to open a crack as far as practicable.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Doing this you can clean out the crack removing any oil and dirt that may stop the adhesive from working properly when applied. I prefer to use slow set Epoxy adhesive because you can take your time to get the adhesive in to the whole depth of the crack to do this I use dental floss or mono filament fishing line as in the picture to pull the adhesive into and through the crack.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

As to support in the crack shown after bandaging the stock with strips of bicycle Tyre inner tube to let the adhesive set and I do give the adhesive forty eight hours to cure before assembling the gun. Then finally the support in this case I fitted a deep seated brass staple set in with epoxy to keep the crack together and stopping any further movement that might open the crack up again in the future.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

This repair has proved satisfactory for a number of years now on a heavily used trap gun, also this repair could be easily removed at a future date if further travel of the crack was found all hidden under the trigger guard strap.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!