I like to place the screw just off center towards the back edge of the hole in the top strap.
That way the screw pulls the frame back into the wood when tightened.
It doesn't take much for what you want to accomplish and still have the screw look right when seated.
You only need to move the center of the pilot hole .010" to accomplish this.
I usually set the stock with frame attached in the mill vise. A drill press & vise can also be used.
I use a long adj clamp to pull the action into the wood for this final fit while I'm doing this top tang screw operation.
That makes sure the frame is set into the wood as deeply and firmly as it can be before I place the additional draw (however slight) of the top tang screw into the mix.
Level the action/stock assembly in the vise.
I use a drill bit of whatever size that just fits the screw hole in the tang to line up the assembly with the chuck.
Place the drill bit upside down in the drill chuck so the solid end is hanging out.
Move the stock/frame assembly around till the end of the bit will easily drop into the tang hole.
Recheck from side and back for square.
Move assembly the required amt ( .010") so the bit will drill the pilot hole closer to the rear of the screw hole in the tang.
Replace that upside-down centering drill bit wih the required size pilotdrill bit for the screw you are using and drill the pilot hole.
The Flues set up is not very good. There's nothing in the stock inletting and triggerplate relationship that pulls the pieces together as there is in so many others.
Flues often have their top stock 'fingers' cracked, or broken and repaired from the stock loosening and the frame rotating up and back pushing those fragile pieces off.
Many times you find that top tang wood screw replaced with a repair done with a machine screw that threads into a steel nut imbedded in epoxy just underneath the tang.
Holds a lot better than the wood screw if done right and the wood isn't all oil soaked when the repair is done.
Looks good too.
