Depending on the extent of the crack, I sometimes spread the wood apart to allow the epoxy to get down into the crack easier.
A thin bladed screwdriver inserted from the front/head of the stock is the usual method if that's where the damage starts as in this case (though the pics seem to have disappeared on the OP's post).
If the crack extends far back thru the inletting and even to the rear tang screw area (I think it may in this instance),,I will take a coping saw and slice thru the crack from the front.
Then saw straight to the back of the inletting following the crack s best I can. But stopping before sawing outside of the inletting.
(That pin in the OP's stock most likely runs across the crack now showing. If it does, saw through it & take a chunk out of it with a jewelers saw or hack saw before trying to cut through with a wood cutting blade on a coping saw.)
All this to relieve the cracked wood of any fibers attached inbetween and clean out old wood that may have become contaminated over time.
It also allows some space for the epoxy glue that's coming plus some allowance for easily clamping the sides tight against the frame of the action when gluing it up.
At the head I usually place a Dumbell reinforcement.
Simply a small machine screw with a nut on the other end.
The screw head on one end and the nut on the other form the reinforceing ends betw the threaded shaft of the screw.
Clip the screw to length after running the nut to an appropriate length needed to fit down into the head of the stock.
Mark the position and cut out an inlet for the screw and nut reinforcement in the head of the stock.
Nothing fancy needed.
Enough depth to bury it in epoxy, positioned in such a way so as not in interfere with any moving parts of course and placed within the confines on the exterior dimensions so as not to show on the outside but still take advantage of all the strength of the wood as possible in holding the head of the stock together.
Where a screw and nut assembly doesn't fit in, I simply use a finishing nail and bend it into a Staple shape with a pliers.
It works the same way buried into an inlet in the head of the stock.
I sometimes add an additional smaller staple in the wood under the top tang area across a crack repair if it's an area acceptable to one.
Do the epoxy repair of the crack and the staple(s) at the same time as well as having the assembled action placed in the stock and screwed down in place.
Put release agent on the metal & action screws so you don't end up with a one piece assembly.
In doing so you can clamp the sides of the stock up at the frame & pull them inward to a nice fit once again against the tangs.
When the epoxy cures, the stock will be set in that position and strengthened by the repair of the crack(s) and the addition of the reinforcement staples.
I often go back after the above process is done and further 'glass bed' some areas of the stock that may need help in supporting the wood against recoil.
Nothing says you have to do the entire job in one pass.
After everything is done give the whole epoxy job a few days to cure before 'live fire'.
There really is a difference in the strength of the stuff after a few days of cure time.
...Damascus,,I always take notes! We can always learn.
