LetFly, I'm glad to help if and when I can. I agree with you about the need to stabilize those cracks in the forend wood. I still don't think that CA is the best choice though. If this was my gun, I think I would go with a thinned epoxy. Warming up the wood will reduce the viscosity of the epoxy even more, and permit it to fill the crack. I'd do the crack on the inside along the forend iron first, and see if I could bring it closed a bit with careful clamping.

Then, after the epoxy set for a few days, to ensure complete curing, I would see if the outer crack will close up when clamped. If it will close up, I'd use the Titebond II wood glue. If it won't close completely, I'd choose the clear epoxy because of its' better gap filling properties, and its' great strength. You could even mask off all the wood surrounding the crack, and use compressed air to blow the glue or epoxy down into the crack. Wipe away the excess on the surface with a rag moistened with acetone or denatured alcohol. The repaired crack may be somewhat visible after finishing, but the side view makes me think you should be able to draw it closed. If so, I would choose the Titebond II for that one. Either way, at least you will sleep well knowing it isn't going to get worse.

It may also be wise to try gluing up only a couple of the cracks in the head of the stock at one time, rather than trying to juggle too many all at once. You have plenty of time between now and April!

A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.