Now I think is a good time to talk about Baize and what Adhesives to use, for large areas PVA is perfect but it does take time to set though it is far cheaper to use with practically no odour. Next is impact Adhesive this works very well if it is used in its non-impact mode by just applying it with a brush to one part then applying the Baize right away without waiting for the Adhesive to dry first, not so good in poor ventilated areas as my wife will confirm “it makes the whole house smell of the dam stuff.” I will just add here about the low odour versions usually Latex. the few I have tried I have found them to be expensive and not up to the standard of the petroleum based solvent versions and finally Aerosol types not a fan they have a tendency to spray the item yourself the table and the Cat. Finally, Pearl/Animal Adhesive this adhesive I do use on vintage case restoration because it was the Adhesive used right up to the 1950s. It does have a lot going for it too, it can work as an impact Adhesive it grips well does not take long to set can be reversed with hot water or steam and extremely stable with only one drawback it has to be used hot. Finally Baize just a couple of things firstly putting it on is exactly the same principal as wallpapering after a number of gun cases you will be very proficient at hanging wall paper perfectly, oh! did I forget to say the walls of dolls houses. Cut and trim using a sharp knife and scissors it is a true woven material and will stretch more one way than the other so don’t pull it too tight then cut to length because it will end up springing back then being short.
Now why is this case problematical, because I need to save every inch of space from front to back of the case so everything is cut to the bare minimum unlike a single barrel case lay out, that has enough room to fit all the wood dividers then apply the Baize. The barrel compartments past the fore end space towards the muzzle are so narrow that it is imposable to fit the Baize after assembly because you cannot get your fingers in to the barrel compartments to manipulate the Baize to cut or keep the glue brush from spreading its contents on Baize that has already fitted. At the muzzle end of the shorter barrel there is only 1/8” 3mm clearance at the pinch point when the Baize is fitted and the stock and action are lying flat in the case.
Final check of the breach mounting
same for the muzzle blocks. Just to answer a question from a member if you look at both barrel mizzles you will dee the stop block only rises to cover the lower barrel, and in doing so allows finger access to the upper barrel for lifting the barrel out of its compartment. The shorter of the two barrels its block is also designed for finger access, also this block also has to terminate the divider short of the case side. Another part of the block deign even though tapered there is a substantial connection to the case side. I know members are all like me and do not drop gun cases do we? So for the rest who do this configuration will transfer any shock to the case side, if the barrel compartment was to end in mid air and the case dropped the impact would cause the barrel to break out and take a gouge out of the stock.
Final check on the short divider before I fix its end block on and shape its taper. the long divider does not have its block fitted it is fitted to the case.
because of the narrowness of the barrel dividers the bottom Baize is fitted now before any further work. I hope this photograph makes things clear. the clamps are holding the divider and the middle block is in place so I can cut the Baize flush with the wood.
Blocks and divider removed showing the fitted Baize. the other barrel position final fitting before it is fitted, it looks in the photograph that the Baize is fitted to the divider but it isn't it is just folded on so I could take some measurements.
