The weight of the drilling depends on more variables than just the guage. The quality of the steel can make it possible to build the gun lighter and be just as strong--witness my Funk 12 ga. with bohler antinit steel and practically a 20 guage frame. Another option for "light" is an alloy or duraluminum frame. There are many variables in the bore size of the 9.3x72R. I like it, but it can be a serious reloading proposition. I think a test firing is mandatory before the purchase is considered settled. I have had a number of drillings that needed work or reregulation because: 1. the left barrel pattern crossed at 30 yards (3 drillings had that problem--the right barrel was just fine), 2. both barrels crossed at 25 yds., 3. the rifle would not consistently fire, 4. the older german scope would not adjust, etc. You get my drift. Be sure you can check it out. I have seen but not experienced a rifle barrel unsoldered at the muzzle, loose ribs, barrel pitting, etc. Take a good look at them, and by all means check them out at the range. Beware of empty claw mounts--they are expensive to replace. Beware of existing claw mount--they are not always tight. Swing mounts may be less problematic. A good drilling is a true joy--a bad one is a heap of trouble. Paying a little more for a Sauer 3000, or Kreighoff, or Hymn, or...is a lot better than buying two or three junkers wishing they would be your dream gun. It is hard to go wrong with 8x57, 7x57, 7x65, 9.3x74 and other RIMMED cartridges. Not saying a Sauer 3000 in 30-06 isn't great, but it means extraction is subject to chamber cleanliness, extractor tab and spring in good working order, etc. A shorter barrel is not always a boat oar. Longer barrels will weigh more, especially if they are made of older steels. Newer steels and receivers are probably best for slug use, as well as higher caliber insert barrels. I have found 25 1/2 inch barrels (65cm) to be just fine. Good luck! Steve
