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#942 09/12/06 04:25 PM
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I received a private request for more complete details on this method I described in a recent post, so thought I would just put it up for all. This is copied directly from an Ithaca Service manual of about 25yrs ago.

To Repair or Restore Color Case on Perazzi's
1; This is a serious problem on guns that have been used extensively.
Equipment Required:
a. Cold blue (we use 44-40)
b. “Q” tips (cotton swabs on a stick)
c. Torch or other heat source
d. Paint remover (we use “Kwick”)
e. Fine steel wool
2; Procedure:
(1) Remove everything from the receiver.
(2) Remove lacquer from the receiver using “Kwick” or other liquid paint remover
(3) Wash receiver in a good solvent or boil with detergent.
(4) Using your heat source, heat the receiver to
a point where liquid cold blue will dry almost
instantly, (about 160°F)
(5) Using a “Q” tip, draw squiggly lines or
whatever is necessary to match existing color
hardening.
Note* If you have polished the receiver to bare
metal, space your lines about ¼” apart on the
first pass, then fill in on a 2nd pass.
(6) Using fine steel wool dipped in oil, remove
the oxidation from the receiver. Be careful
not to remove the color.
(7) Wash in good solvent. Do not touch before
applying lacquer.
(8) Spray with acrylic plastic from “Koloid”
(9) Reassemble gun & return to a satisfied
customer.
Note** This procedure does not affect the case
hardening. It only restores the color.

A few things of note; I also tried Brownell's Oxpho blue & found it worked same as 44-40. I do not recall the brand of Acrylic I used but don't recall Koloid being available where I purchased mine. Also note that though a "Torch" is listed as a heat source, it is used to heat the part to an overall temp of only about 160°F, not enough to bring about any change of color, not even the faintest straw or yellow, much less blue. No concentration of heat is applied to bring about a color change in the metal (A simple propane torch is suffecient heat for the job). Outside of a genuine bone/charcoal case-hardening by knowledgable professional, this is the only procedure I am currently aware of to produce a semblance of case colors with no damage to existing heat-treatment.
Miller
PS; this is applicable to guns other than Perazzi's and can be simply polished off should you decide to go with another finish later.


Miller/TN
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#943 09/12/06 05:46 PM
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A good electric heat gun will get you there and heats a large area at one time.

#944 09/12/06 06:51 PM
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This is less slippery (sneaky connotation) than the "water colors" but slippery nontheless. I can not bring myself to be a sneak. Pretty cool though. Guess it's one more thing to be on the watch for when considering a purchase. Glad I was informed. I'll have no excuse if I'm hornswoggled.

#945 09/12/06 08:26 PM
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I have a beater Flues that has no case color left whatsoever. I'm not trying to "misrepresent" the condition of my gun but I also don't want to bother with Ohio Case Color and possibly warp parts that do not need to be hardened again. Thanks for the info.

Mike Doerner

#946 09/12/06 10:28 PM
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Sure, but might as well use a torch or the water colors, a good acrylic spray will hold the colors long enough to sell it.(/sarcasm)

Oscar stated annealing the action makes it easier to clean up. That means it will need to be re-casehardened and NO company can completely guarantee there will be no warping so why pick on Ohio Case Color Co.?

#947 09/13/06 12:09 AM
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As the wise man Solomon said "To everything there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven"
There is thus a place for a true bone/charcoal case hardening & there is a place for this. There are guns which can be dressed up which simply don't rate the expence of a professional case hardening.
There is however "Absolutely" no time, place or purpose for sticking the hot tip of an accetylene torch to a gun frame & holding it there to produce spots & streaks of varying colors & tempering out the hardness put there by the makers. There is no metalurgical problems with this method, only asthetics, Everyone can be their own judge as to where it is applicable. :p
Miller


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#948 09/13/06 12:17 AM
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My wife's electric range's oven has a minimum setting of 170 degrees, just about perfect for warming parts.
Colored my old Husqvarna double, it had been worn to bright. Playing with 44/40 I was able to color it to my liking... a splotchy blueish/brown mostly.
Total investment: 1 bottle of 44/40.
Craig


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#949 09/13/06 03:44 AM
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I've used a cooking thermometer in an oven to regulate heat in the area of 160-degrees. Per Craig's comment, such an oven set-up should provide a straight foward way to uniformly heat parts.

For Craig - - did you apply any form of protective coating? If so, how are the colors holding up? (Not that we should expect colors to last as well as bone/charcoal achieved colors.)

#950 09/13/06 08:05 AM
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The oven idea seems far better than using a torch. Thanks for the input Craig. I just made the post direct as listed by Ithaca, just remember, if one tries this & does use a torch you do not use a concentrated heat nor heat anywhere close to getting a color change, just slowly warm it up.
Miller


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#951 09/13/06 10:52 AM
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Not an expert but I'm guessing that those who are obsessed with unworn expanses of makeup will eventually be tricked by the painted lady one way of the other. Since I am the infamous dabbler in water color color, I'll say that the experiment was a failure--far to opaque and garish. I was told by an art restorer and inpainter that a presentable facsimile might be produced with analine dye or thinned acrylic. I also did Miller's Perazzi fix to the same Fox action bar in the oven for a few minutes and the swabbed Oxpho. When I sold the old relic, it had been scrubbed clean and had the characteristic sheen of chrome-steel. Careful you all don't bump into somebody else up there on the moral high ground. The occupancy level may be higher than you care to imagine.

jack

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