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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
The last post by Chuck got me thinking and learning about the last great gun deal I made. It is an 1890 Fishtail lever Parker one frame hammer gun that is a bit off face. I have it apart and I have learned a lot so far. Always wondered what that pin was in the middle of the water table. Just figured out it stops the gun from opening all the way. Neat the way one of the lumps grabs it when you open the gun. I am a mechanically inclined sort of guy but there is only so much time in the day and I finally figured it was time to learn a bit about the inside.
So I wiggled and tugged and found that there is about .003 between the barrels and the standing breach (used the old feeler gauges from my car fix it days). But the barrels also lift about .006. I can get a .006 feeler gauge between the barrel flats and water table when the gun is closed. The hook, hinge pin and the locking bolt and matching slot do not show any obvious visible wear signs I have seen on other guns. Everything looks pretty smooth. I realize that there could be nice even wear. I wonder if this gun needs work on the hook or the locking bolt or both. Thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402 |
Put a piece of paper on the hook and a drop of oil to hold it. See if it locks up tight, it may and the lever could still be left of center, not a big deal. If its tight after adding the piece of paper but the lever is left, the locking bolt and lug are showing wear, again not a problem. If the lever to left bothers you it can be fixed by adding to the bolt. Hard to say without seeing it.
Steve
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
Steve,
Thanks for taking the time to answer. I did as you suggested and it felt a little tight. Maybe my imagination. Measured the paper at .003 and tried newspaper at .002. When it closes it feels and looks tight but the barrels are a couple of thousandths high at the upper outboard position (if that makes sense)of the breech balls. There is still about .006 or so between the bottom of the barrels and the water table. I can see some light at the intersection of the standing breach and water table.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402 |
Sounds like the hook is about .002" worn, not a huge deal really. It can be fixed, or you could wait a bit. Everything slese sounds correct.
Steve
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
Should I use the feeler gauge .002 leaf and try black max adhesive. The feeler gauge steel is quite stiff and springs back if you try to bend it. Would it be harder than the hinge pin?
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,997 Likes: 402 |
I have little to no experience with this method....others can advise better.
Steve
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
I have three Parkers and all needed shiming. Cut a .002 or .003 piece of shim to fit on the pin, bend it a bit and see if it makes it tight when put together. Once you get a tight fit, get some Loctite 380 from Brownells and glue it in place. I use 240 grit to score the glue surface of the shim and the hook and put some holes in the shim to allow the Loctite somewhere to go. Clean with acetone and a felt tip marker can be used to hold the shim in place. When clamped with a C-clamp, the marker will expand to fill the hook . Sometimes you'll only need the shim on the very center of the hook and some on the top or bottom will have to be honed off. On one gun I had to shim on the side of the lug. Give it a try, it's not hard to do - Paul
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31 |
Mike Orlen did a very good treatise on shimming the hook at shotgunworld.com years ago.Basically do as the above suggest and when you have determined the shim required solder it into position using a pinpunch to hold the shim in place.Then dress the metalwork back for a practically invisible repair.As bladesmith points out it usually only requires metal at the central area of the hook curve.Which is why I prefer Tig welding and filing it back.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
I could not find the Mike Orlen treatise on shims. Anyone have a copy they can send me?
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
Be careful before you assume that it is the Pin. The last two or three that I have repaired found that it was not the pin and hook,but the locking bolt-under barrel surface.I had the locking bolt or surface area under the barrel TIG welded and filed to fit for the solution.If there is front to back movement it is the pin-hook,but just up-down at the firewall it will be the locking bolt
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