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Joined: Jan 2005
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Tinker Offline OP
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Another pinfire double rifle!

I'm still a bit amazed. I have huge enthusiasm around the period of development of the metallic cartridge. Sporting guns are what get my thrill meter bouncing, and double rifles tend to get my dander up more than shotguns.
Bore rifles and tiny calibers interest me more than dangerous game guns do too, and when I finally peeked into a thread here on the site the other day to see what someone was trying to identify I just couldn't contain myself when I saw an unusual no-name Belgian damascus pinfire double bore rifle being discussed.
I had to have it.

To make a medium length story short, I have it now.
And thanks to all who had anything to do with it.

What a sweet little rifle.
This very nicely made bore rifle weighs just over seven pounds and balances at the hinge pin!
Very handy, very lively.
I spent this morning at the ranch running the brass I made through it testing an idea I had about wadding.
All's good. The rifle's a champ.




I'll be back out at the ranch tomorrow morning running a slightly different load.


--Tinker

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Tinker Offline OP
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Hm.

Shot the rifle again today, put another twelve rounds through it.
I ran different wadding today, did a tiny bit of doctoring to the sights, and ran a small adjustable aperture ring on my glasses. It was much easier to tell what was trigger issues and what were rifle issues.

I'd run 5/8" diameter quarter inch thick saddle felt wads with 5/16" donut holes cut out of the centers, soaked in bore butter and set atop a milk carton 'cup wad' punched out with a ten bore wad punch and spun into shallow little cups with a special die and punch I made up for the task.
That worked well. The idea of circular shaped felt wads instead of flat disc shaped wads was to get the felt wads pushing out against the bore, together with the cup shaped over powder cards creating a gas seal and keeping the fouling soft with the bore butter prep.
The diameter of a disc is less than half the circumference of a ball of the same diameter, I figured I'd have better luck starting off with a bowl shape via the disc and card than attempting to get that effect by wrapping the felt wad around the face of the ball under pressure.
Things were pretty consistent yesterday.
Today I used a harder felt, but with the same design idea. The felt I used came out of a hard felt cowboy hat. I didn't get as consistent of results to day, I tried the same donut shape wad alone on top of the over powder card, I tried a donut shaped wad over a disc shaped wad too.
The saddle felt seems like the way to go.

The barrels had been printing left barrel hits to the left, right barrel hits to the right. At two and three quarter drams, the average distance between barrel groups at fifty yards was about two and a quarter inches.
Giving it three drams of powder opened the space between hits to four and three quarters inches.
I left my saddle felt back at the machine shop today, all I had at the ranch was the hat felt and decreasing the charge to two and a half drams got the gun to print similarly to the two and three quarters drams charge, but with a bit more elevation change between barrels.
I'll be back at it again likely tomorrow, with the saddle felt.
I'll be paying closer attention to overall cartridge length and bullet jump tomorrow. I've been a bit cavalier about overall length thinking the gun would likely not be very sensitive to that.
More to learn.
Lots of fun to shoot though, I do like this rifle a lot.


--Tinker

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Good going Tinker, and what a beautiful rig. Just remember, we enjoy doing this.
Tom


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How are you priming the pin fire mechanism? I have always wondered if there is a practical way to do this, and have passed on buying several guns because i did not know; i even have some unused 12 ga. pinfire cases i had bought, but then chickened out on buying the shotgun! is there a source to read about this? thanks!


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Tinker Offline OP
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I made the cases out of brass stock intended for making fasteners, it's good stuff to start off with.

At the bases of the cases I left a little anvil, just about dead center where I set percussion caps that get the business end of the firing pins set into them right before I throw the powder charge.
For a field load I'll take thick cyanoacrylate adhesive (thick crazy glue) and tack glue the firing pins where they insert into the cases at the rim.

There is very little written material, on paper or on the web, that discusses reloading pinfire cases or load development fot the guns made for the pinfire ignition system. I can understand why though. There are very few pinfire long guns around these days that are in good enough shape to dust off and take out hunting. Safety is super important and it takes a good eye with some perspective and experience to tell whether or not an old pinfire gun's going to be up to the work or not.
Of the good ones made, say about a hundred and forty five plus years ago, many of the most beloved of them either got converted to central fire or run into the ground over time.
Perhaps that's part of what makes finding and running a quality pinfire rig so rewarding. You need to have the sense of adventure, the experience to know whether or not to embark on the journey, and the appreciation for the historical signifigance of the pinfire system.

I really dig my pinfire guns.
I'm really enjoying getting this rifle going too.


--Tinker

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Tinker:
I'm really enjoying it too. Keep the info coming, its being appreciated and absorbed!
Might end up with a pin-fire myself one day, but most likely a shotgun.

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AAh Marrakai-

Good to hear your voice in here.
There seems to be a state of radio silence around discussions of shooting the sixteen bore rifle.
I'd started in on the Mahillon months ago but got derailed from those efforts in the flurry around issues with my darling's pregnancy. Now that's all said and done and our daughter is born and perfect, everything's quiet around here for a change (imagine that, it's finally quiet now that the child's born...)
Having found this rifle got me off the duff once again and squared around with the task of setting up for and shooting the bore rifle.
I still have to bed the Mahillon and may well do the same with this gun. I think a stock bend may well be in the cards for it too as this one is shooting left to the point of aim and the stock is cast over to the left just slightly. Looking it over with that in perspective has me thinking it may have been bent in that direction some time after it was made. I'd seen a post from you somewhere discussing the hot linseed oil method of heating the wrist and getting one of your stocks to move. I'm gonna run out to the hardware shop today and see about getting a jug of said juice and setting in to correct that fine point of tuning before I go much further.

I got fifty or so balls cast last night and will likely get as many more done some time today as well as start in on a set of brass for this gun.
Having only two cases has been hampering the progress a bit. I also need to tweak my wadding setup as well. The waxed paper cup wads seem a tad short. Looking at some recovered cup wads and considering the occasional dropped bullet, my sense is that I need to run higher walls on the cup wads. As it is they're only about 1/8" high from base to top including the base thickness of the wad itself. Twice that will be the next course, the brass will have paralell walls inside instead of following the tapered shape of the outside of the shells. I don't think I need as much capacity as I'd given myself to start with and I think the gun'd do well with a -straight-no-taper shot into the bores. They'll be just a tad quicker to bust out on the lathe too.

Let me know about all those pinfire double rifles you stumble over in search of a good shotgun Marrakai. I know it's going to be a hassle for you to stop and write me every frickin time you have to toss one aside, but do think of me. You can ship the first one I find acceptable out here in that Tolley case you've been saving for me...


--Tinker


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