doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion Classic & Custom Single Barreled Sporting Rifles @ doublegunshop.com Shaping Rails on Forearm - Question

I'm making progress shaping the model stock for my rifle. I've got the rough shapes worked out, and now I'm working on the rails on the forearm. It took me a while to get the rails level and at the right vertical height. Now I'm looking at their width. On the OEM Ruger stock (Ruger M77 MkII in 6mm Rem) the rails are consistently about 0.28 inches wide their whole length. This looks and feels somewhat bulky to me. On the model stock, as it stands now, the rails vary a bit in width. In some places they are about 0.20 inches wide, and at the most narrow place they are 0.15 inches wide. A couple of questions I welcome input on:

1. Are the rails typically a uniform width their entire length? I'm thinking they might taper towards the forend. For general reference, I'm building this rifle with a style similar to a G&H sporter.
2. Are there any guidelines for how thin the rails can be? I don't want them to be fragile or unsightly. Their narrow width is only at the top. They gain width and strength rapidly as they blend into the rest of the forearm lower on the barrel.

Again, any input is welcomed. I've included a picture to show what I'm talking about.

Larry

Get a copy of Jerry Fisher's mechanical drawing for stock layout- good place to start. Ruger stocks generally have enough wood left on them to build another stock! Kidding but some truth. Plenty of good pictures of custom guns on the web to get a good idea. Start with Morris Hallowell, good quality pictures. Whether tapered or straight they should match side to side, no wavering. Do you have a copy of Dave Westerbrook's book?

Thin them. Most American, and today even some European makers, put enough wood in their stutzen stocks to use as a baseball bat. You're correct, they are bulky and that's being kind.

Rule of thumb - if it looks good, it is good.

If it looks fat, take some more off, until it looks good.

Gentlemen, your input here is super helpful. Some of it confirms what I was thinking, i.e. if they look too fat then they are too fat. Still, getting input from others is valuable. I will try to get a copy of Jerry Fisher's mechanical drawing. I've seen images of it, but I'm not sure I've seen where it can be purchased. Either way, I'll research it. And I just purchased a copy of Dave Westerbrook's book. Thank you all for the help!

MidwayUSA’s website show they currently have the Jerry Fisher drawings in stock.

Don't get it to thin for the duplicator. Thats part of the final finishing. A heavy handed operator can affect the final outcome.

In my opinion, once your in front of the recoil lug and screw, and with a barrel that doesn’t touch the wood anyway, make this area as you want it. Obviously getting to radically thin would not be a good idea but the wood doesn’t support anything anyway. I don’t work with bolt guns, do many single shots, but did restock a Remington 788 so I’m definitely not claiming to be an expert. I don’t like big bulky looking guns and like the wood to get smaller as it goes forward. I like that top edge to narrow considerably going forward and do not make it a flat surface on top. I prefer to roll it up to the barrel from the side. Also rolling it down around to the belly. By doing both of these gets you away from the square looking modern stock.
I also work only from blanks, and prefer not to use duplicated stocks, so the comment about getting it to thin does not apply to what I do but probably does for you.
Bob

You are on the right track. No there is no rule that the top flat must be t he same width front to back. I'd suggest making them a bit smaller width at the front, tip end and a straight taper from the barrel cylinder width. Even just a bit thinner will allow a more rounded forend.
One caveat about the Fisher drawing, They are Wonderful, But the given dimensions are different that taking measurement off the drawing.

Thank you all for the input. I'm now reading Dave Westerbrook's book and studying Jerry Fisher's drawing. The input from everyone has been superhelpful.

Larry