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#6394 04/29/06 11:22 AM
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I know I have seen it here before and I did a search to no availe, but what is the Radio Shack chemical that I have seen here for black and white etching?

#6395 04/29/06 11:30 AM
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Ferric cloride which is used to etch electronic circuit boards.


If we feed our faith our fears will starve, if we feed our fears our faith will starve.
#6396 04/29/06 12:07 PM
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Thank you!

#6397 04/29/06 04:52 PM
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I recently asked about this at my local Radio Shack & was told they had none & could no longer get it. Others have stated no problem, so perhaps depends upon locale, or even supply on hand. Might want to check soon.
Miller


Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
#6398 04/29/06 05:26 PM
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Mine had in in a liquid form for 5 bucks. OK so now I have that part. I know that Oscars process was pubbed in DGJ, but those issues are sold out. Anybody have the Cliff's notes on the proceedure?

#6399 04/29/06 08:26 PM
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They have to order it from their warehouse - and I've been told by my local store they can only get one bottle at a time - something about useing it for bombs , or some such nonsence . anyways , they can get it if they want to bad enough . paul

#6400 04/30/06 08:34 AM
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This is a very commmon solution that is readily available. On-line you are can try:

http://www.brainerdchemical.com/BrainerdChemical/Catalog_results.asp?search=ferric+chloride

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.asp?SearchQuery=ferric+chloride

The MSDS: http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/liquid/415-liquid.pdf

To Dispose of it:
1.)Contact your local Hazardous Waste Disposal Company

2.)The solution must not be put down the drain because of residual copper ions left in it. To make it safe for disposal, you can add sodium carbonate (washing soda) or sodium hydroxide to it to neutralize it, until the pH value goes up to between 7.0 and 8.0, testing it with indicator paper. Copper will be deposited as a sludge. Allow the sludge to settle, pour off the liquid, further dilute it with water and then it can be poured down the drain. Collect the sludge in plastic bags and dispose of it as required by your local waste authority.

Pete

#6401 04/30/06 06:45 PM
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Thanks to all.

T-Bird

#6402 05/03/06 07:19 PM
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I'm interested in seeing those cliff's notes on Oscar's process too.

Does anyone here have a thread link to post for us to see?

I think it'd be great if Dave would create a 'sticky' thread on the topic so that there could be a documented discussion on damascus barrel blacking, browning, and etching.


--Tinker

#6403 05/04/06 05:40 AM
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Oscar suggested a 15% ferric chloride solution, which I get mixed up by a local chemist. I don't remember exactly, but I think the Radio Shack stuff is 29%, so you'd want to cut it 1/1 with distilled water.
As far as cliff notes go, I can give an abbreviated version of the process.
[1] Coat the bores with something to protect them from the etchant. I use shellac, currently, but expect there are some more modern paints out there that are easier to remove, after.
[2]Rust, boil, and card, as you normally would for standard rust blueing.[No boil, if browning].
[3]Immerse the barrels in the ferric chloride solution for 5-10 seconds, rinse immediately and thoroughly in cold water.
[4]Wet card using 0000 steel wool.
[5]Repeat the process until the desired results are achieved.
______
There are finer points to this. Such as barrel and room temps can effect the outcome, shorter rusting times seem to help with contrast, even polishing is more important than with standard blacking, etc., but that's the short of it.
Also, I built a tank out of 3" PVC to submerse the barrels in, but I believe it was Doug Mann who brushes the etchant on instead. I had trouble getting an even finish this way, he has no problems with it. I'm guessing that a lot of the end result depends upon the exact metals used, and I've not experimented with brushing since that first attempt. I guess what I'm saying is that you're dealing, somewhat, with an unknown here, as far as barrel make up. Go slowly, and pay close attention to detail. Your material will dictate, to some extent, how long to rust, exposure to the etchant,etc.
Jim

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