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Forums10
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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,588 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,588 Likes: 9 |
Mike, I can lube wads easily and quickly but it is one more thing to do. Cutting wads would probably take longer - at least for me,
Brent
It is very time consuming.  I travel a lot for work (as an industrial mechanic)and keep the felt and cutters in my work vehicle. At the end of most work days I can find a drill press (I don't have one at home) at my customer sites. With permission I'll spend an hour or so after the end of the work day and crank them out. With the spinning cutter I can crank them out very fast. Then when home at the loading bench I am ready to go.
Mike
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869 |
Although I prolly have less than 500 BP loads out the tubes...I have never had a card or fiber filler smoking on the grass or marsh. Recovered card wads show no sign of torching....fiber fillers dissapear in a confetti shower and natural felts under the shot show shot dimples but no charring?
Would be more worried about coarser powders in lighter loads showering embers, no?
Best,
Mark
 Ms. Raven
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86 |
lol...Mark I've never saw anything but confetti either.
These guys finding burning wAds must be shooting some squib loads.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,743 Likes: 436
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,743 Likes: 436 |
Is 70 grains of Swiss 2f a squib load in a 16?
120 gr of Swiss 1.5 in a 10 bore?
Brent
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/qclHjMQ.jpg)
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
Here is my last word on this thread(I promise). After reading and rereading these posts it appears to me you(Brent) are more interested in arguing than in getting answers to your question. With the utmost respect and civility intended,
Jim Legg
Nothing for you, Joe. Return to camp.
Last edited by Jim Legg; 10/25/07 10:44 AM.
> Jim Legg <
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,743 Likes: 436 |
"With the utmost respect and civility" I disagree.
Brent
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869 |
Brent, don't think I'd say "squibb" outright, but those could be "flamers" MAYBE if your wad column is not sealing properly....overbore?....weak nitro card?...long forcing cone?.....hulls shorter than chamber?.......thin plastic hulls?
Would not worry about weak crimps, would not contribute to blow-by and torching wads?
Just a thought,
Mark
Ms. Raven
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,743 Likes: 436
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,743 Likes: 436 |
Mark - it is a good suggestion. I think it's not a problem BUT I don't know for sure. How would I know? How does one diagnose this. In the hull (win AA), the wads are very tight and snug.
Hulls are cut to match chambers (2 9/16) in the 16, 2.75 in the Cashmore 12. The ten uses brass hulls from RCM and are cut to length also. So, I think that they fit will.
I diagnose blow by on muzzleloaders and rifles easily but on shotties, I have no clue. Any suggestions?
Brent
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 937
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 937 |
Brent,
There is simple and ancient test for blowby in cartridge shotguns with card and fiber wads. Take the combined fiber and card wads (you are actually using) and shove them down the bores from chamber, using a cleaning rod. IF they are hard to shove down the bore (especially if very hard), they probably seal nicely. IF they slide down easily (especially if really easy), they are very likely not going to seal.
One can also do some pattern testing with the overpowder card and fiber cushion wad loaded over a plastic sealing wad -- cut from base of a one-peice plastic wad or use one of the separate plastic sealer wads. IF you were getting blown patterns with the card and fiber wads alone but, get much better patterns with the plastic sealer wad under them, you have your answer.
I am always leary of old doubles having the bores reamed to remove pitts. Can/will really ruin them for loads using card and fiber wads. I have two such old guns that give pretty useless thin and patchy patterns with card and fiber wads, but, good to excellent patterns with one-peice plastic wads.
How well card and fiber wads fit into a case is not the important criterion for blowby. Sometimes one can go to thin brass hulls and the oversized wads they require to improve patterns.
Niklas
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 602
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 602 |
Wads may be tight and snug in a hull, but they must be tight and snug in the bore to avoid blow by. AA cases tend to have fairly thick walls, and so smaller internal diameter; wads that fit a AA case snugly may not be very snug in the bore. I personally use reiffenhauser style cases because they are thin-walled and have a greater capacity for bulky BP; AAs have a fairly small capacity at the powder end. Oversize wads still have enough give in them that they ought not increase pressures much. How much do you manage to fit in a AA hull? the times I've tried I couldn't get much, and had to use a short wad column.
Diagnosing blow-by? velocities would give clues; recovered wads may too.
RG
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