doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com .410 reloading question

Stan, you sure your farm does not need a bag of brass spacers? Let Joe pay for this. Tell him Corn Pop said so.

If I had to fire from a lot of brass I would like to have a gun built as stout as possible. Perhaps one of the .303 rifles converted to .410. Ease of loading and strong extractor, plus it was designed for a real rifle cartridge. Or even one of the Marlin bolt action .410. Don’t know if you might have extraction issues but would not like to damage my regular .410.

My brass hulls from RMC measure .025" wall thickness. Unfired Cheddies, .035. Below are some of my fired hulls ready for tumbling in walnut hull media. There is a slight difference in diameter full length. Towards the head, the last .4" is about .0005' larger in OD because of the gun's chamber's form--a Yildiz TK36 single shot .410. I shoot a mix of plastic and brass hulls depending on whatever I grab out of my pocket. Patterning shows an increase of holes inside the 10" ring at 40 yards with the brass compared to plastic, all other things equal. Maybe just anecdotal but my barrel man has noticed in the drinking and betting turkey shoots into paper, he has noticed that a chamber length matching the open hull length of the standard shell used at shoots performs better than those overly long or shorter than the beginning of the forcing cone. He believes an exact match gives a smoother, non-disruptive transition from chamber to forcing cones. I've been using this brass for 8 wild turkey seasons. The RMC reloading kit is to the right of the shells. Top to bottom, deprimer, primer, primer seating block, deprimer block and a collar that fits over the hull for ease of powder and shot pour. I seal the shot behind an OSC Duco cemented into the hull. Gil

What about this?

liverwort,
303 would work ok for 2 1/2" shells, but they are looking for 3".
Mike

I just measured a 10 gauge to see how it compares. It is 0.033" thick, and the 2 7/8" case weights 848 gr. When I bought them, RMC told me they made them to paper hull specs so that paper hull reloading components could be used. They are strong enough not to deform if I step on one on hard ground.

Your reloading tools are considerably more refined than my self-made tools, but reloading was pretty simple with blackpowder. I killed Canadas, turkeys, and pheasants with that gun, though it was darn heavy at ~10 lbs.

https://www.survivalistboards.com/threads/loading-410-metallics.962928/

This is the best write up I have read on this subject. It took me a couple days to recall where I had seen it. I book marked it for future possible use. Deals with fire forming and some basic loads. Also mentions how to get around the wad not sealing well to prevent powder gas blow by. As always read, think about things and proceed with reasonable caution. Remember what Abe Lincoln said, "if it is on the internet you know you can trust it".

Thanks, Jon. Some good info there, tho' he does not mention having to thin case rims, with the rifle brass.


Yep. Sounds like a job for a Baikal. You can't hurt those things.


That is very interesting. I have wondered about that for much of my shotgunning life, but never heard an informed opinion on it. Those card shooters have forgotten more about making even, tight patterns than most of us will ever know.

One should fire form the brass to the gun it will eventually shoot. Otherwise, one may end up with brass that won't chamber in the intended gun. I did a lot of fire forming 5.56 brass to shoot 7 mm rounds out of a Thompson Contender in IHMSA competition. I'd be surprised if chamber pressures were higher fire forming than when pushing a 7 mm 162 gr boattailed Sierra downrange. Stan, you are welcome to use my Baikal single shot if you want to go that route. Gil

I can see why you would need to firearm in the intended gun, same as having to resize plastic shell heads that may have been fired in a gun with a bigger chamber. I was overlooking the obvious.

IR, I can't imagine 7 grs. of Herco behind a case of Cream Of Wheat producing damaging pressures.

Stan

Can you tell us the source that says you have to trim the case rim thickness? All the sources I have found show that the 9.3 round is a tiny bit smaller in both diameter and thickness than the 410 and the base is nearly the same diameter. Also, the comments I made about primer posckets had to do with converting MagTech particularly to LR from SR. Using 9.3 cases manufactured with LR primers should require nothing. Simply get a case and see if it fits and pop a primer. I would do it for you but I sold all my cases with my last 9.3 Ruger. I did at one time load some 45/120 cases with shot for a Ruger No.3 I rechambered to that caliber. The idea was survival loads with a large bore. They shot surprisingly well with an open pattern of course, and I shot a couple of doves as a proof of concept. Worked like a charm with standard 410 loads.

I would post a request in the Double or single shot rifle area and ask if someone can send you a case. A lot of people here own 9.3's I suspect. Better yet simply ask someone to insert a 9.3 case in a 410 and see if it fits and cycles.

In all these posts, I haven' seen any comment that anyone has tried this. I think the solution is too simple to worry about. Put Unique, Herco or some such load in a case, fill it with cream of wheat, plug it with a bar if soap and fire form it.