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I have also seen old guns( usually hardware store branded Belgian) with the hooks center punched around the outside and around the doll's head. This is worse than doing nothing.
Mike

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Originally Posted by Joe Wood
I’ve wondered if a low temperature solder paste would work to hold a thin shim in place. If so, the shim would be good for the rest of my lifetime or longer. I’ve had little luck with various types of super glue. The problem I’ve found with hiring a “professional” welding and refitting is invariably the surface contact is only about 10% to 30% on the hook. To check I take a Marks A Lot and blacken the repaired hook and reassemble and flex the action a number of times and then check the contact. Pathetic.


[Linked Image from i91.servimg.com]

Salut

Suivant la qualité de l'arme, je soude une cale sur la demi-lune du crochet ou bien je remplace l'axe de charnière par un plus gros.

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Originally Posted by Joe Wood
The problem I’ve found with hiring a “professional” welding and refitting is invariably the surface contact is only about 10% to 30% on the hook. .................... Pathetic.

Amen, Joe, that has been my experience as well. And also, the lack of contact between the barrel faces and the breech. Several years ago I sent a new set of A H Fox barrels to a highly renowned doublegun 'smith out west to fit to an A grade Fox frame. These barrels were brand new, with never a stone or file having ever been put to the hook. Completely finished in Philly, except for beads and bluing, but never fitted to a gun. He bragged he did the job in under three hours. When I received it I could see why it only took him that long. There was only 30% contact of the left barrel at the breech, and I could read a newspaper through the crack on the right barrel breech. Zero contact on that barrel. I was flabbergasted, but a lesson learned. Everybody that is bragged on as a doublegun 'smith can't fit barrels. In fact, I've come to the conclusion that the ones who can do it absolutely right are as scarce as hen's teeth. The one set I did myself certainly weren't right, but they had way more breech contact than his.


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Two questions:

Damascus suggested that using a soldering iron is preferred for tinning a shim because the best can be more easily controlled. How does one control the heat when welding to the hook with TIG or MIG processes?

Secondly, Mike said this about peening the hook:
Originally Posted by Der Ami
This is worse than doing nothing.
Other than the general opinion that this is the way a hack would do it, are there functional disadvantages to upsetting the steel to tighten things?


Jim
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There seems to be a general consensus that the first area to address is the hook/hinge pin to pull the barrels rearward towards the breach face. How would one know if the proper amount had been added? If too much was added it would seem an unnecessary amount would need to be removed from the barrels to get the gun to close. I understand barrel material might need to be removed but how would you determine that amount before addressing the the barrels?

Thanks for you input.

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82nd
Trooper.
I also watched another friend, Gerrold Pheffer, fit up new barrels ( a couple were mine), but to O/Us. He always fit the barrels to the frame first, before cutting the hook and fitting the hinge pin. This way he got good contact with the breach face, without having to worry about the hook. He then fit the locking lug( using a dummy locking wedge) and only after that marked and cut the hook and scraped it to fit the pin last ( except for filing to match the frame).
Mike

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Trust me Joe- 40 years in the welding trade, and specializing in TIG on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals- welding to build up the surface of any cylindrical metal shape is a very tricky bit of business. RWTF


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This punch both sides of the barrel hook for an off the face repair was considered a correct method here up to the late 1940 s, not the best but far from the worst.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Thanks for that pic, damascus. I've never seen a punch made like that. Appreciate it, that's learning for me.


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I often hear of scraping metal to achieve the final fit. What do these scrapers look like?


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