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Amigo Will #116447 10/10/08 05:12 PM
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Will:

The way to deal with that is to push the toplever to the left after the gun is closed to remove any play. Even with that problem, it's still a good bit more accurate than a leaf sight you can't see anymore.

Rem

Last edited by Remington40x; 10/10/08 05:13 PM.
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I agree 100%. It is something to be aware of though if going after something that might fight back.In a normal shooting lifetime I doubt the lever would move much.

Amigo Will #116551 10/11/08 02:39 PM
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Couple of things--


On lever travel and sight picture...
The aperture sight (in this application) is there to 'stop down' the exposure of light to the pupil, thereby deepening the field of view over the rear sight, the front sight, and the target.
Slight rotation over the pivot pin's screw thread should not affect the point of impact, and properly made it shouldn't significantly effect the amount of aperture.

On price to build one of these...
Take the image shown above to your local machine shop (the successful one) along with your double rifle and have them quote you on the work. You might be surprised at the price (might be less than you think)
Again, note that from maker to maker, era to era, rifle to rifle, the diameter/depth/shape of the screw head, length/diameter/pitch of the screw shank, and height above the base of the screw head to the aperture will need to be custom for each rifle. Ideal aperture size will vary from shooter to shooter depending on numerous factors, including distance of shooter's eye to the pivot pin axis and distances between front/rear sights and those to the aperture.


Much of that can be measured/calculated/experimented by shooters with little to no machine shop or craft experience by taking black tape or paper and fixing it to the rifle and fiddling away with razor knives or pins or hypo needles to get the aperture size and tape or whatever to get that aperture in the right place.
From there you're close and can work it out with your metal smith. Doing this over email or the telephone might not get you effective results.



--Tinker

Tinker #116569 10/11/08 04:59 PM
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Sorry for the late response.

The peep Dave shows was designed by George Hoenig. I have made a few and it takes about 8 hours of tedious hand work. This is how I do it.

After establishing the screw pitch, make a threaded post about .75 long the diameter of the top lever screw. Use a tap or lathe to cut the threads and leave a square shoulder. Tighten the new threaded post in-place on the top lever with vise grips. Take a taught tread and lay it from the front sight blade through the rear sight notch and along the new sight post. Scribe a line on the side of the post in alignment with the elevation on the thread. Cover all of the action and top lever with making tape to keep filings out. Cut the post off, leaving it at least .10 high. File the top flat. Mark the center line of the sights on the new flat post top using the taught tread as a guide. Start filing on the rear post sides making two "flats" so the rear post will eventually be a "cube" about .190 in diameter. Now when you need to remove the post, you can use a cresent wrench on the flats. You will also need to file a radius and "blade stop", on the top of the post. Now make the rear blade out of .150 thick flat stock. The blade will be about .45 high and have a square "notch" .245 wide and .160 deep filed in the bottom. A 3/64 diopter hole will be drilled in the center line of the blade, about .280 above the base. Next drill a shadow hole about .195 diameter, centered on the diopter hole- drilled about half-way through the blade from the front side. Drill and tap holes on both blade "ears" for 2/56 Allen screws. The screws will have sharpend pivot points that fit into center punched marks on either side of the square sight post, allowing the blade to fold up and down.

All of this work requires lot of what George Hoenig calls "fiddling" to get elevations and centers lined up with the thread line. On most rifles, a new front blade also needs to be manufactured. It should be left purposefully high and filed down later for elevation adjustment. Once the rear blade has been adjusted for windage with the Allen screws, Locktite is applied to the threads. You can make the sight as fancy as you like, adding matting with a checkering file if desired. Bluing is the last step.

This sounds complicated I know, but refering to the photo should help. I probably left out some important detail too. I will try to add other photos when I get a moment.

These sights are not easy to make but if you go to the trouble, you will have one of the handiest and best sights a hunter could imagine. Effective out to about 150 yds, it never it fogs up and folds up and down instantly. Just find the target in the aperture and it's automatically centered by the eye.

Good shooting.

Last edited by C. Kofoed; 10/15/08 09:40 AM.
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I think it was Dr. Don Hopkins who had a Purdey double rifle with a neat little peep at the breech. It's obvious from the position of the pictured peep that the point of impact will not change as the lever position changes by little increments. The aperture is centered directly over the pivot point of the lever.

Last edited by eightbore; 11/26/20 05:45 PM.
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I also like peep sights and have them on most of my lever guns. However, my Simson -Suhl .405 double rifle has express sights, a Talley QD scope, and, a peep.
[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
You can see the express sights forward of the rear rib which has grooves for the Tally QD scope mount. As luck had it, the Talley QD peep also works and fits perfectly.
[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
When I first tried the peep from a bench rest at 100 yards, the 300 grain Hornady bullet cut the edge of the one inch center of the target.
With this less than one inch group 4 shot regulation at 50 yards, I quit tinkering with the rifle and just went hunting!


[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

Last edited by crs; 01/29/21 08:08 PM.

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It is hard to beat an aperture rear sight. They have kept me in the iron sights game, which I much prefer. They obviously are ideal on your double gun.

I have found that, as my eyes change, adding a +0.5 diopter lens for my shooting glasses helps even more in combination with the aperture sight. They are a little bit hard to find, but they are available for just a few bucks on Amazon with a bit of digging.


_________
BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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I bought this Spanish double in 7x65R and it already had a peep on it.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Mike,
Nice looking rifle. That peep looks like it can fold up and down - very convenient.


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Still in England. With them being closed for covid I can't get my shipment over.

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