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Joined: Feb 2006
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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"That rotary bolt,,it's not uncommon to see the small hole in the side where the stem of the yoke comes through a small amt.
Some are just machined that way. The hole is drilled very close to the outside edge.
It doesn't take much fitting/filing to reveal the cavity if you are not careful.
Some people get a little carried away and take too much off too quickly especially with a belt grinder."

Kutter I have taken many L.C. Smith's apart and everyone has that small hole in the rotary bolt. The coupler pin goes into this hole and protrudes ever so slightly. If the coupler pin does not go into this hole you cannot get the coupler to be in alignment with the top lever and will prevent the top lever to move and won't close.
I phrased that wrong in my statement above, I stated gun won't open. I figuratively jumped "the gun" in posting that.

Also I have never seen a worn out rotary bolt and I have some that are over a 125 years old. The part that wears is the slope on the extension rib causing the rotary bolt to cam farther onto that slope and then the top lever closes farther to the left of center. The best way to prevent that is to hold the top lever over when closing the gun, this prevents unnecessary wear on the extension rib slope.
There was a saying in that "an L.C. Smith never shoots loose".
That is also why there is a gap between the barrel flat and the receiver to let this wear allow the barrel to fully close.
Now they will get a gap between the breech face and that is caused by wear on the hinge pin.

Last edited by David Williamson; 12/20/20 10:44 AM.

David


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It just looks like there is a lot of slop between the bolt and the bore is sits in. I could not find any dimensions to verify so I assumed the bolt / bore or both were worn. The trip pin and/or its bore are very worn. As mentioned I should be able to turn one of those out. Any recommendations on how many thou of clearance to shoot for between the trip pin and bore?

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Sidelock
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Here are two drawings, one of the rotary bolt and the other of the coupler. You can determine how much is worn by comparing these two. I had forgotten about the trip pin and included it.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/8AyAsLl.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ntW0ZgP.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/WYrRlUZ.jpg?1[/img]


Last edited by David Williamson; 12/21/20 09:57 AM.

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FWIW-- the braze repair on the right hand hammer looks to be a good job--RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Sidelock
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Fishsticker,
To add to RWTF's comment, the added hammer spur seems to have enough "meat" to allow filing to match the original one, if a replacement is not "in the cards". The braze joint can be "faired in", cleaned up, and colored black, to be a lot less noticeable.
Mike

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Sidelock
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In going over your pictures (very well taken) I noticed the repair on the one hammer that was brazed. The one part that was put on is not from an L.C. Smith. I had the same problem with the top part of the hammer broken off and fabricated a new one and Mig welded it on.



You can also get replacement hammers from Dixie Gun Works. You need to drill and file the square to fit the tumbler. You also have to orientate the hole so that it places it in the right location. Best to use layout blueing and orientate the square that way.


David


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Sidelock
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The Dixie castings are of the third type hammer. Sometimes called the C type.

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That is the what Fishsticker has on the shotgun shown, a 3 pin back action lock with the Type III (C style) hammer started in 1899. This last style Type III lasted until the end of production in 1934.


David


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David, Could you talk to us a little about the checkering?
I find the small curved surface difficult to do well.
Chuck

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Chuck it is tedious, I used a small triangle file and laid out out a pattern similar to the other side. Far from being exact but at least it has enough for a thumb hold.


David


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