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LetFly Offline OP
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A few more photos on the forend. Wood cleaned and now ready for grain filling, nick repair, finish.



Checkering to be recut after finish




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Nor really sure from the pictures but those black spots should come out with a dilute mixture of Oxalic acid and then rinsed.


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LetFly Offline OP
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Thanks. I have not used Oxalic acid before. I will check it out. Any advice on use?

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It should be available in any hardware store and is fairly inexpensive (or it was). You put a few white crystals in an ounce of water and mix it up. Mine looks like salt so a pinch of salt is what I use. I use a small stiff brush and dab it on. It will work in less than a minute in my experience. It will bleach stains especially the black ones where metal meets wood. It does not leave a stain. I rinse the wood off in cool water since it is an acid and you probably don't want to leave it on for long.


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I'll second the use of Wood Bleach (Oxalic Acid)

I put about a 1/2 teaspoon of the crystals in a quart jar of plain water.
Then heat the stirred mixture in the microwave for 30 to 40 seconds.
That warms it up just nice and it seems to work really well.

The directions on the mfg'rs packaging are to mix in hot water. But just warmed up seems to be fine.

I slosh it on with a piant brush,,even dunk pieces like the forend right into the jar if they'll fit. One end then the other.

You'll see the black marks and other discolorations go away right while your are doing this as well as the wood lighten up in color.
It won't bleach it to 'white'. Just lighten the orig color and overall even the color of the piece.

Flush with cool water and again use the brush gently.
The wet, warm stock wood can be easily bruised in this condition so be careful with it.

Shake it dry and then let it dry naturally.
It won't take very long to appear dry,,30 minutes or so. But let it dry over nite at least before doing anything to it further.
Resist the temptation to speed dry with a torch flame , stove burner or even leaving it in direct sunlight.
You don't want to chance burning edges of the inletting nor warping anything.

Here's the stuff I've been using since forever.
I bought it at HomeDepot and other like stores..
https://savogran.com/pdfs/Wood_Bleach_PD.pdf

In the last year for some reason, I get strange looks when I asked for the stuff as it wasn't on the shelf in the normal spot in the Paint Dept.
They didn't know what I was even talking about.

So I did find a Deck cleaner that is Oxalic Acid. ,,and bought that instead. I think it's Thompson's brand.
It works just as well but is a liquid mix. I used it 1:1 w/water and it seemed OK.

There were 2 Deck Cleaners...The above and another that was for use in a power washer. This one contained detergent and a 'grit' to clean off the old finish....Not the one you want.

The first one clearly states..Active ingredient Oxalic Acid

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Kutter, thanks yet again for an excellent tutorial. I was considering posting a question here about how to use Oxalic acid. Now, there's no need.

Bravo!

SRH


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Oxalic acid (aka wood bleach) is also available in the paint section at my local True Value hardware store - I would imagine it is available in all True Value stores. I bought it for treating my honeybees for mites just last weekend.


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Originally Posted By: Kutter


In the last year for some reason, I get strange looks when I asked for the stuff as it wasn't on the shelf in the normal spot in the Paint Dept.
They didn't know what I was even talking about.


Over the last month, I have been doing some work on a house that my daughter bought. In several recent trips and phone calls to Lowes and Home Depot, I have encountered an alarming number of their employees who don't even know what drywall or plywood is. No exaggeration, they actually have no idea what department those items are in, to direct inquiries for pricing, etc.

Based upon my recent experience when I asked in what aisle I would find spackling compound, I'd imagine that a similar query about oxalic acid would result in wasting about 30 minutes of your life. I'm sorry, but when you hire someone to work in a home improvement and building supply warehouse, they should not be ignorant about even basic things. On my last trip to Home Depot, the cashier had no clue how to run her cash register.


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LetFly Offline OP
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Thanks all. As this is an acid do you neutralize with soda as they recommend in the furniture restoration trade? Do you worry about corrosion where wood and metal contact?

Last edited by LetFly; 12/02/20 01:58 PM. Reason: removed reference to vinegar
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I always rinses well then neutralize with baking soda.


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