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Letfly, you would not neutralize an acid with vinegar - which is also acidic.

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BrentD, good point. Some do this on furniture, but perhaps for another reason. I will use a soda wash as I do when cleaning metal with peracetic acid.

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Closest Lowe's and Home Depot is nearly an hour's drive from me. I ordered a tub of Savogran Oxalic Acid from eBay for $12 and some change, free shipping. It'll be here before I would have a chance to drive there.

I had an almost unbelievable experience at the Home Depot there years ago. I was looking for metal studs, AIR. I found them but they were on the top shelf of those high multi-shelf racks on either side of the aisles. I got an employee to come. I said I want those, and pointed up high at them. He stammered, looked at them, then said "You'd be better off to go across the street and get them at Lowe's". I stared at him in disbelief, and said okay. I went straight and found the manager, told him what the employee had said, and pointed him out to him. Last thing I saw was the manager headed his way.

Loves me some ebay. If those places won't hire better help than that I don't owe them any loyalty.


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Originally Posted By: Kutter
The wet, warm stock wood can be easily bruised in this condition so be careful with it.


Reading back over your directions for the use of the wood bleach I noticed the above. Nowhere prior did you mention warming the stock wood prior to the use of the bleach, only the water. Did you omit that, or is warming the wood not necessary?

Thanks again for the excellent instructions.

I have a perfect "patient" waiting for the "medicine" order to arrive. I have used whiting on it for over a year and no more oil is coming to the surface. It wasn't really that bad to begin with. But ........ there are black stains in several places that need removing before staining and finishing.

Thanks, SRH


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The wood will be warm from the warmed soln application of the oxalic acid while you are brushing it on or dunking the wood into it.
No need to warm up the wood itself in any way like under a light bulb or with a heat gun, ect. At least I've never done that or seen the need to.

The stock will cool off of course when you flush the stuff off.
The main thing is to just be extra careful with the wet wood. It dents and bruises very easily.

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Thanks, Kutter.


"With one foot in the grave ..........and one foot on the pedal, I was born a Rebel" T.P.
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Back to forend repair prior to finish and recut checkering

Divot to be repaired



Divot repair in progress


Practice piece first

Last edited by LetFly; 12/04/20 11:53 AM.
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Stains removed with oxalic acid solution - 2 tsp in 8oz hot water. Soda water and clear water rinse. Air dry.







My thanks to all on this thread.

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I decided to give the wood one more treatment with the oxalic acid. After reviewing my go to reference on wood finishing by Flexner I decided to follow his advice and leave the solution on until it dried, then rinse off with clean water and neutralize with soda water or ammonia bath. I used soda. Results are excellent. Now I have the walnut piece from 1893.

Oxalic solution dried on wood:


Cleaned forend:

Wiped with mineral spirits

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Divot repair results





(thanks to Craig Budgeon over on the Parker forum for guiding me through this repair)

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