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Sidelock
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I made one from a broken wood broom handle. I use 2 screws to hold it in place careful not to screw it down too hard. Seems to work for me. Does not take much to hold a few ounces of wood.


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LetFly Online Content OP
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Thanks for the replies. This is my forend checkering cradle, thanks BD. Now I need tools. Amazingly difficult and expensive it is to acquire a tool or two. Many on eBay and evidently now considered collectables. One seller asking $240 for a Gunline starter set. I have a couple of Dem-Barts coming.

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Just remember to rotate the fore end under your cutter. And position yourself so your arms can moved forward and back while looking straight down the line you are cutting.

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Thanks. I will put in some practice on an old piece before starting with the Parker.

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Cleaned up the finish on the Parker fore end and of course I discovered a split not evident with old finish in place. Always a good practice to look closely as I would have missed this without removing the fore end iron and the finish.

How it appears that there is some oil in the wood given the dark coloration remaining. Before closing the split I would like to remove the oil as much as possible without discoloring the wood. Any and all advice welcome.

Wood with old finish removed


Split to be closed with some oil in wood

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Doesn't look like enough oil to worry about, to me...Geo

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I'm with Geo on this one. Will you epoxy bed the end grain? I probably would though I suspect most will not.

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Thanks. As for epoxy the end grain I always do so on the stock head mating surface but likely not here as I do not want to cover over the serial number. Would an application of CA help here?

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Originally Posted By: LetFly
Thanks. As for epoxy the end grain I always do so on the stock head mating surface but likely not here as I do not want to cover over the serial number. Would an application of CA help here?


Yes, it will prevent wood degradation and oil damage. It isn't good for bedding of course and I understand why you would want to keep the serial.

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I still pull oil out of the wood using Whiting Powder.
Very slow but very effective.

The very slow part makes it not very popular for use anymore. Things have to happen quickly or at most over night it seems.
They won't with Whiting, but you can draw all of the excess oil out with patience.
..Just have other things to keep you busy in the mean time...

For that crack..
If you can carefully lift the piece enough to get glue into the crack the full lenght of the split, I'd go with that.
If not wanting to risk cracking further, I'd grind the crack open a bit further along it's interior length.
Dental burrs are great for this. Tiny m/m dia ball and cylinder shaped cutters do quick clean work and are easy to control.
Yes a Dremel is used or if you are so lucky to have a special attachment for a Foredom handpiece or such equipment to use.

Then use epoxy to repair the crack in this instance.
In the orig fix you could actually just use a WoodWorkers glue and it'd work just as well in adry, oil clean environment.

In either case I'd top off the repair with a metal 'staple' across the split in the end grain. It doesn't need to be overly large or the legs tremendously deep.
Make one from a small finishing nail bent to shape and legs clipped to length with pliers and wire cutter.
Use the Dental Burrs once again to dig out the cavity needed to seat the staple down into the wood on both sides of the repair plus bury the head below the surface slightly.

The head of the staple gets hidden just below the surface cleanly during an epoxy repair.
The forend iron will take care of the fit as well as push the repaired piece into perfect allaignment along the side of the forend metal tang.
Ser# in the wood will be untouched.
Don't forget release agent on the forend iron.

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