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Woodreaux #587020 12/12/20 11:46 AM
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Updated with a "digest" of the Purdey process as demonstrated by Purdey finisher James MacDonald.

Woodreaux #587099 12/13/20 10:55 AM
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James,
Naptha purchased from chemical supplies company.Rose Pink is in an old recipe but I never tracked it down .Does dissolved mothballs produce Naptha ? Can I access the Purdey finishing treatise?

Woodreaux #587103 12/13/20 11:28 AM
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I thought you were referring to Naphthalene, which is a major constituent of mothballs. As opposed to Naphtha, which is standard lighter fluid. I was wondering if maybe the naphthalene gave a certain old-closet kind of smell to the gun!

If you look at the Digest, PAGE 37 (Direct Link), I've just reformatted the outline of the purdey process.

The full video can be accessed by clicking the underlined link in the title of that section or by clicking here HERE

To go to the specific time for a given step, you can look at the time in the screenshot that I included from the instagram video.

On that note, every place in the Digest that has underlined text is a hyperlink that will take you to the source of the information, a purchasing source, etc.

Last edited by Woodreaux; 12/13/20 11:33 AM.

Jim
Woodreaux #587222 12/15/20 12:20 AM
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Is there any actual formulas for the purdey slakum? I live in the humid south and my minimal experience with the slakum I've mixed is getting them to dry without excessive dry times.

Woodreaux #587232 12/15/20 08:59 AM
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From Salopian:

"Here you go boys,
Purdey's London Finishing Oil
For Darkening, Filling & Polishing
All measures are in English (UK)
1/2 pint of Raw Linseed Oil
2 ozs of Plaster of Paris (Dental Quality)
1/2 fluid oz of Butter of antimony
1/2 Gill Spirits of Wine
2 teaspoons of Vinegar
1 teaspoon of Venice Turps.
You can leave out the Antimony if you don't want to darken the wood.
Leave out the Plaster if you don't need to fill the pores.
That's what is in Slacum Oil."

see also: https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubb...e=0&fpart=1

As for climate, England is fairly humid even if it isn't quite the bayou. I suspect drying times have more to do with ingredients and application than the atmosphere. nonetheless, I built a drying cabinet to have a little more control


Jim
Woodreaux #587243 12/15/20 09:51 AM
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FWIW, for oil finishes, I find UV light does more to help drying that most other factors. I don't think it is drying so much as curing that is involved. A couple hours outside in the sun helps a lot (though dust/lint problems then become an issue).

Woodreaux #587246 12/15/20 10:18 AM
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Thanks! I saw that on the document but wasn't sure if it was it. Will boiled linseed work or does it have to be raw?? Another question is will the pure grain ever clear be the same as the ethyl alcohol? The last I made I heated up and cooked. Is this prepared in the same way? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

Woodreaux #587951 12/22/20 05:38 PM
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Hi

Does anyone here have any first hand experience with J.V. Howe's formula number 1? I would like to hear about it.

PhysDoc

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