doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com heat treating small parts

I am not sure, he said 'parts' so probably more than one

I will get it out of the safe and check

do you have a shoop?

I could send the gun to you to be fixed... its sure no use to me at present and I would love to put it to use

my main problem is that the gun is very very difficult to open whether it has been fired or not

ejectors work great and everything else seems good

it is a very nice well balanced light weight 20, about 6 lbs even





[ please excuse the poor cell phone pictures ]

Cable, yes I have a shop and have been making parts for all types of double guns.

Miller, please explain why adding some carbon to the surface of high carbon steel would hurt anything. Guess I was just lucky, but I've always used kasnite when doing trigger jobs, just to be safe.

Bladesmith;
Al I can truly say is that is all you know about heat-treating you most likely should not be doing it at all.

When you apply the Kasenote the part has to be heated above its critical temp. Upon quenching the base metal of high carbon will be put in its state of maximum hardness. Ordinarily, this would then be tempered or drawn to a state of approximately spring steel.

If this is done them the Kasenite hardness will be lost & of little effect. If it is not done then the base metal will be hard & brittle & apt to break.

Nuff Said

If you're starting with a high carbon steel, are you sure that carbon is being added to the surface? It might be that the carbon in the surface of the base steel diffuses towards the least resistance. Maybe, the base steel, if known, would have a specific heat treating protocol. Would that heat treatment necessarily be compatible with how someone might want to treat a case? Only thoughts.

The gun looks nicer than I had thought. Those locks look friendly for peeking inside, one might pick up on galling in spots that really aren't hard enough. I wonder if shooting up a flat at some clays would loosen things up just fine.

OK, I'll ask the question... what parts need to be heat treated, according to this local Alaskan gunsmith, and what makes him think they need to be heat treated?

You say everything works fine, so I am assuming that you aren't experiencing things like doubling due to worn sears, etc.

I think the first thing you should consider is finding a real good double gun gunsmith, and getting some hard facts about what is wrong, and what is sheer conjecture... possibly a knee-jerk reaction based upon the reputation of some Spanish guns having improperly hardened parts.

I agree completely with what Miller said about using Kasenit on high carbon steel. Anyone who knows anything about hardening and tempering would know that there is absolutely no need for a surface hardening compound on steels that, by their nature and composition, can be hardened and tempered.

I also agree with craigd about the possible cause for the gun being tight and difficult to open, whether fired or not. It looks to be in near new in box condition, as if it has seen very little use. A little break-in usage, along with some good lubricant, could make a world of difference.

i appreciate the comments. the gun probably has been fired 200-300 times. it gradually got HARDER to open. you are right, it needs the attention of a real shotgun smith, this fellow is mostly a stocker, and a very good one.

i can try shooting it some more, but it is at times almost impossible to open at all.

the opening is the only problem i have seen, and it really wasn't like that when i first got it.

Well, you can pretty much eliminate the cocking effort from compressing the main springs if it is difficult to open whether fired or not. I think a good place to start would be checking the mating surfaces of the hook and hinge pin for roughness, galling, or lack of lubrication. Old dried up grease can cause a surprising amount of resistance to free movement. Check the mating surfaces of the action knuckle and the forend iron for any roughness and old congealed lube as well. This area also needs a little lubrication.

This is all stuff that you don't really need a gunsmith to look at. The subject of correct hinge pin lubrication has been beaten to death for years here, and opinions are varied. We are opening a gun, not spinning hot turbocharger bearings at 10,000 rpm. I like a little Mobil synthetic grease, because it is good stuff, and I have plenty on hand. Unlike oils, it isn't as likely to migrate from the metal surfaces and soak my wood. Make sure to use a solvent to clean and remove any old lube. This is just regular gun cleaning maintenance, because old lube that gets contaminated with dust and grit becomes a grinding compound that will actually accelerate wear.

It just isn't that easy. The steel for the parts needs to be determined first.
2-Piper is right-on, one method could ruin some parts and another would cook the others depending upon the steel.

The owner should be ready to invest in the gunsmiths figuring it out.