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SKB #561618 12/30/19 05:25 PM
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Thanks Steve, your Christmas present should arrive in a few days!!!

susjwp #561657 12/31/19 12:19 AM
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I don't remember who mentioned it in this thread, but I've heard/read several times that the old driers are no longer available and that may explain why linseed oil based finishes were more useful 'back in the day'.

Am I wrong in thinking that the drier only really affects the time between coats?

Also, for anyone who is looking for a good old lead-laden Japan drier, this company sells it online. Not sure what I think about using a 10% lead additive in a hand applied finish.

https://www.naturalpigments.com/genuine-japan-drier-2-fl-oz.html


Jim
mark #561660 12/31/19 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted By: mark


What I see are two forearms that look refinished...

Ps...l like the free advertisement you're running in your signature line I guess you got the ok from Stevie.

Woodreaux #561661 12/31/19 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted By: Woodreaux

Am I wrong in thinking that the drier only really affects the time between coats?


I was under the impression that the drier helped harden the finish.

keith #561662 12/31/19 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted By: keith
Yesterday evening, I went back to the store that had Watco Danish Oil for $3.99 a one pint can, and I bought 16 more pints. Of course, I planned to use it for other things besides gun stock finishing.

Today, I'm having second thoughts...

I should go back and buy all they have. And since they have several other stores within an hour of me, I should go and buy up all those stores have too. Then I could put it in little 2 ounce bottles and sell it here for $29.95 a bottle by calling it Genuine Winchester Custom Shop Hand Rubbing Stock Oil.

And I could sleep well knowing that I was selling you guys a better stock finish than a linseed/sunflower oil concoction.



Best advise yet.

susjwp #561664 12/31/19 01:53 AM
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Jim, finish driers are often formulated in combination because individual drier chemicals are classified as primary (top) driers, or through driers.

Using a primary or top drier alone could result in a finish that feels hard and dry on the surface, but is still soft just below the surface. This could result in damage, or create problems if you thought a stock was dry and hard enough for checkering. Using only a through drier chemical, or using too much drier additive can cause a brittle finish.

The calculations of how much of each drier chemical to use for a given batch of finish are somewhat critical and they can get fairly complex when several drier chemicals are used. That's a reason that it may not make a lot of sense to mix your own homebrew, unless you are working from a known good formula, when the manufacturers have gone through the trouble to correctly work this all out for us.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

mark #561668 12/31/19 08:21 AM
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Thanks Mark! Mighty nice of you.


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

Here for the meltdowns
susjwp #561673 12/31/19 09:23 AM
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Woodreax, Thanks for the link. Could be some useful stuff there.

I'm not a Dr or a chemist. I don't know the hows and whys of what makes TL work as easy as it does.

I have a lot of folks on my ignor list so I may have missed some of the previous discussions

Steve, your welcome. Are you going to the Guild show this year?

mark #561674 12/31/19 09:30 AM
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Why don't you two freeloading bOzos call each other on the telephone and save us the nonsense ?

mark #561675 12/31/19 09:31 AM
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No guild show for me this year. I have a hard time convincing myself to go to gunshows. Maybe next year, I have some projects coming along that might be fun to show next year.


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

Here for the meltdowns
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