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Woodreaux #561553 12/30/19 09:18 AM
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I made this witches brew Sla'cum about 10 years ago per a Double Gun recipe. The blueish tint is from Cobalt drier all I recall is beeswax, artist grade linseed and turpentine and the cobalt drier.

mark #561558 12/30/19 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted By: mark
On a sanded in finish it fills faster, top coats quicker and works easier.


I hope I'm not asking for you to give away your trade secrets, but would you describe your process a little more?

Do you use, let's call it a "linseed oil based finish" to avoid controversy, from start to finish? Or to you top coat with something else?


Jim
susjwp #561561 12/30/19 11:01 AM
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Woodreaux, If you doing a new stock or a total refinish and starting with a bare sanded uo stock. Wet sand with 150 and TL till the TL and wood dust makes a slurry. Rub the slurry into the wood then wipe off excess with a paper towel. Stay away from checkering, if finish or slurry gets in checkering scrub it out with a tooth brush. Leave it overnight. Repeat with 220 grit. Leave overnight. From here on it depends what you are trying to accomplish . If 220 is appropriate for the gun and the level of fill looks correct your done filling. If not continue until you have it where you want. if I want to stain I do it now with a spirit stain. Then top coat with TL. I apply with fingers and hands spreading it even and thin. Let sit over night. Repeat until you are happy. After the 1st top coat what you see when applying is what it will look like when it drys. A Field grade gun can be done start to finish in 3 to 5 days.

susjwp #561565 12/30/19 11:09 AM
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susjwp #561570 12/30/19 11:35 AM
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Woodreax, One of these is original and one is redone with TL.

https://www.gunsinternational.com/guns-f...;cdn_bp=1#lg-17

mark #561598 12/30/19 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted By: mark


Thanks Mark, that is a beautiful gun and refinish. I appreciate your sharing your method.

Speaking to the concerns of others here regarding the function of that finish, would you change anything for a waterfowling piece or a gun that might be particularly exposed to the elements?


Jim
Woodreaux #561602 12/30/19 03:36 PM
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On guns that are going to see a lot of weather I would give a couple of extra top coats

My personal hunting guns are top coated with TL and have seen rain more than once.

mark #561603 12/30/19 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted By: mark
Woodreaux, If you doing a new stock or a total refinish and starting with a bare sanded uo stock. Wet sand with 150 and TL till the TL and wood dust makes a slurry. Rub the slurry into the wood then wipe off excess with a paper towel. Stay away from checkering, if finish or slurry gets in checkering scrub it out with a tooth brush. Leave it overnight. Repeat with 220 grit. Leave overnight. From here on it depends what you are trying to accomplish . If 220 is appropriate for the gun and the level of fill looks correct your done filling. If not continue until you have it where you want. if I want to stain I do it now with a spirit stain. Then top coat with TL. I apply with fingers and hands spreading it even and thin. Let sit over night. Repeat until you are happy. After the 1st top coat what you see when applying is what it will look like when it drys. A Field grade gun can be done start to finish in 3 to 5 days.


Would you stain the wood first, before rubbing oil in and filling pores? Also what do you mean by "spirit stain"?

susjwp #561604 12/30/19 04:01 PM
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Battle, I stain after filling and before top coating .

A solvent based dye type of stain like TL stain or Behlens Solar-Lux. As apposed to an oil based pigment stain like Minwax or a lot of the hardware store stuff.

I didn't invent this method. Lots of custom stock makers and gun makers use it.

As with most stuff in gunsmithing there are lots of ways to do things. If you get results that you are happy with thats what is important

mark #561611 12/30/19 04:36 PM
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Looks great Mark.


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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