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Joined: Jan 2002
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my vote is to leave it alone and preserve it as found...

stan and others, what say you?


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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argo, knowing that you like french guns, thought you would like this link:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/818363082


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Argo44 Offline OP
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Interesting: Looks like Berthon Bourlier Frères in Saint Etienne - Arquebusier existed from 1753 to 1831. The company is also identified as Berthon Bourlier Et Fils Aine, St. Etienne, France. (Fils Aine = oldest son). Can't find much more. The rib says "C Gordu Berthon Bourlier".....Claude Berthon Bourlier died in 1831 as mentioned above. That might be the "C." The gun is clearly much older that 1861....1820's?

Can't identify the Brussels Arquebusier H. Manglot. Why it's got two gun makers' names on it is a mystery. Perhaps Manglot marketed the gun?


Baluch are not Brahui, Brahui are Baluch
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Argo44 Offline OP
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On the Reilly 5512, looking at it further I'll definitely need a professional familiar with muzzle loaders to look at the barrels and nipples. Recommendation? The stock is not too bad....I'll try Steve's Linseed oil and see what happens.


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I got a small flashlight, the size of 1/2 a AAA battery, stuck some opaque plastic over the lens and slid it down the bore facing toward the muzzle..
Gives not a bad initial look.
As others have said the cheap borescope type things you can send down the bore work well too.
Make sure you get one with an angled mirror attachment to get a good look sideways as it goes down.
Be warned, looking through these makes things look far worse than they probably would to the naked eye.

Mines certainly got some pitting here and there, but the breech area was pretty good. Bear in mind you have one pit each side that goes clean through the barrel :-)
I shoot mine with conservative loads of Swiss 2F without issue, but that's a call you have to make.
There's some good info on original muzzle-loaders here:
http://www.cablesfarm.co.uk/a-beginners-...ders/#more-1630

GDU

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The resident gunsmith, Willie Boitnott, during the NMLRA National Matches during the '80s at friendship, IN, used tiny round mirrors, which were highly polished pieces of polished steel, as I recall. He would drop one the right size down the bore until it rested on the breech, then shine a light down the bore and view it. I got him to check the bores on a 16 bore Powell for me, in about 1985, before buying it.

The above method of dropping a tiny flashlight down against the breech will not allow you to view the very bottom of the chamber area, which in many cases is the most deteriorated area of a muzzleloader bore. The length of the flashlight area of the breech cannot be seen.

SRH


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or...remove nipples and attach a fiber optics adapter to a flashlight...

https://www.amazon.com/Beamguide-Fiber-A...8CTR49F062KFQH7


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I've examined the bores as best I can without a bore light and they don't look bad at all. But here are some condition problems I'll be facing:

Pitting on the outside underside of the left barrel:


Rust deposit on the left forearm area...and is that replacement wood there? I thought this bit of rust corresponded with the pitting above but it's a good inch more towards the chamber.



Dent in front left barrel...this looks new - wonder if it was done in shipping?


Chip on right side of fore arm:



Possible small crack on left side of forearm?


Checkering is pretty worn...this from the stock grip:


A small area of corrosion on the outside breech area of the top left barrel:


Last edited by Argo44; 07/29/19 11:56 AM.

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Nipples are solid, not blocked but look like they have not been taken out in years..I can just imagine stripping one of them. I remember breaking off a screw extractor trying to get the points off a 1967 Triump TT Special - that wasn't fun.


And I don't understand the wood screw on the tip of the ramrod.


I'm going to have to have a barrel guy look at this if I'm going to shoot it. Recommendations welcome.

Last edited by Argo44; 07/29/19 11:45 AM.

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The screw will let you disassemble a load that has not been fired.

If you use linseed oil for perking up the wood, make sure it is RAW linseed oil, not boiled linseed oil.

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