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Joined: Mar 2002
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: skeettx
JR
What would you suggest?


Steel wool snags and leaves steel fibers in the wood, with very little beneficial removal of imperfections.

Start with a VERY careful wet sand with 320 wet-or-dry sandpaper and mineral spirits, paying close attention to sharp edges and contours. GO SLOWLY, taking time on small areas until all surfaces have been sanded completely. I cannot emphasize enough how important this first sanding is in getting a great finished product. Go over it with reading glasses in a well-lit area. You will find places you missed, I assure.

Next, do the same thing with 400 grit, then 600, 800, and last a sand/polish with 1000 grit. It should have a glassy smooth surface.

Stain as needed with Timberluxe Stain, then apply a series of coats of 1/3 CCL Conditioning Oil, 1/3 polyurethane, and 1/3 Tru Oil, thinned out with mineral spirits. Wipe off excess. Let cure for several days, depending on humidity. Continue with additional coats until satisfactory result is achieved.

You can also do a wet sand with the above mixture for a pore-filling, sanded-in finish that gives a satin sheen.

You can use Timberluxe stain through the final finish if needed.

GO SLOWLY!
JR

Addendum:
The Timberluxe Stock Finish works great also. Doesn't get tacky too fast. I'm going to try their new #2 Formula that is thinner on my next refinish. I've quit trying to do stock refinishing this time of year in Mississippi.
JR

Last edited by John Roberts; 07/20/18 06:27 PM.

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Sidelock
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My pro stockmaker friend would mask off the checkering carefully and wet sand the stock with 380 grit wet or dry paper, then clean off any residue. If you use a commercial stock finish you can sand in the first few coats, which will fill the grain with the sanding dust mixed with finish. Sand between coats until the surface is smooth. Then apply several thin coats of finish.

I have used shellac to refinish a model 21 (original finish was an orange shella, I used a French Polish technique similar to what I used on some Art Deco furniture I worked on. Shellac is thinned with alcohol and succeeding coats partially melt the underlying coats of shellac. Gradually a unified, smooth finish is attained. Lots of work to apply and requires frequent maintenance. It is also easily damaged by water. Looks awesome, though.

Last edited by Chukarman; 07/20/18 05:37 PM.

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Good Shellac is not effected by water. That is an old wive’s tale.


B.Dudley
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Sidelock
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On a scale of 1 to 10, shellac as a stock finish is a weak 1.
JR


Be strong, be of good courage.
God bless America, long live the Republic.
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