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Agree with Brian. Bedding is highly recommended after reconstructing the Head. (Really, for any Vintage Shooter, since stock shrinkage over time is possible) Since it's highly probable that poor head to action fit caused the cracks in the first place. Bedding will insure a proper fit to avoid issues in the future.

Regards
Ken


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I've never seen a Parker (with the original stock) with "poor head to action fit." The damage was most likely caused by mishanling of the gun or falling on it.

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Originally Posted By: DAM16SXS
I've never seen a Parker (with the original stock) with "poor head to action fit." The damage was most likely caused by mishanling of the gun or falling on it.



I was referring to wood shrinkage over time, specifically to the Head. It's not unreasonable to think it would occur over a period of 100 years or more. Oil soaking could also weaken the Head. Since cracked heads are so common, I find it hard to believe so many guns were dropped so hard as to cause the heads to crack. Us "Bottom Feeders" run into cracked Heads all the time.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 02/18/17 10:51 AM.

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Loose screws.......


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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certainly cannot prove it

but i expect, with the number of guns we see with this kind of damage, the cause is more likely a steady diet of heavy loads over many years, not a fall.

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The most important thing with damage like this is that no one has tried to fix it already.
Poor attempts at repairs make it even more difficult to do it right.


B.Dudley
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The "Curse of the Bolt through the Flats". In the first of the Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" books, one person recommended threading a piece of welding rod and screwing it through the Flats. I have another PH with this travesty, I have no idea yet on how to deal with it. It's not just one, but several rods in various places on the stock.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 02/18/17 11:10 AM.

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Quote:
The "Curse of the Bolt through the Flats". In the first of the Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" books, one person recommended threading a piece of welding rod and screwing it through the Flats. I have another PH with this travesty, I have no idea yet on how to deal with it. It's not just one, but several rods in various places on the stock.

I have a VH 16 on a 0 frame that has a bolt through the head, otherwise a pretty nice gun. I spoke with DES a few years ago and he suggested new stock cheeks with or without checkered panels. I suppose checkering would make the glue lines completely disappear, but look a bit rich on a VH.

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Originally Posted By: Replacement
Quote:
The "Curse of the Bolt through the Flats". In the first of the Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" books, one person recommended threading a piece of welding rod and screwing it through the Flats. I have another PH with this travesty, I have no idea yet on how to deal with it. It's not just one, but several rods in various places on the stock.

I have a VH 16 on a 0 frame that has a bolt through the head, otherwise a pretty nice gun. I spoke with DES a few years ago and he suggested new stock cheeks with or without checkered panels. I suppose checkering would make the glue lines completely disappear, but look a bit rich on a VH.


I've heard the same recommendation. At least a bolt can be removed. What the he!! can be done about removing the welding rod? I'm thinking about using a Dremel with a carbide cutting wheel to cut a slot in the end of the rod and trying to screw them back out.

Regards
Ken


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Youz guys are such purists wink



The OP's c. 1917 20g with 2 and slightly less than 1/2" chambers + "modern" 2 3/4" loads + 100 years of wood shrinkage and oil = cracked head of the stock

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