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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45 |
Quick wood refinishing question. I just stripped my stock (acetone and alcohol method) and had a recoil pad installed. The wood where it was sanded is now much lighter than the wood that was not sanded. I plan to refinish with Timberluxe. My question is how do I get the rest of wood the same color without sanding, or is that not possible? The wood at the action is perfectly flush and any sanding would make it recessed relative to the action. I also have no interest in sanding the checkering either obviously. Thanks! 
Last edited by Dan S. W.; 01/06/17 05:20 PM.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
It sure looks like oil absorbed through the head of the stock. Did you leave the stock (without the new pad) in the acetone for several days to soak out the residual oil?
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45 |
I soaked it in acetone for about a day then alcohol for the same amount of the time per the Wonko formula if memory serves. The entire stock was the same color as the wrist and portion closest to the action prior to sanding. Also, it is fairly old from about 1888.
Last edited by Dan S. W.; 01/06/17 06:43 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405 |
Make sure no more oil comes out. Put it in the sun in a window for a few days and see what happens. If it does, it will need more soaking and repeat.
The timberluxe stain is a pretty good product to help darken the butt. But you should be able to get the head lighter than that.
B.Dudley
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Joined: May 2004
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
Mr. Dudley is an expert and a professional. I am not but I have done more than a dozen and I always leave them in the acetone for at least three days. I have used alcohol afterward but found it did little if nothing at that point. I would point out after 125 years the oil is probably in pretty deep.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,601 Likes: 14
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,601 Likes: 14 |
Use heat and wipe off the old oil as it bleeds out. Use a clear solvent on your wiping cloth.
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 113 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 113 Likes: 7 |
Steaming wood will lighten it too. I've successfully lightened wood with an iron set on hot and a damp terry cloth. Place the cloth on the wood, then place hot iron on wood. Do small sections at a time. You will see the color transfer to the clothand the wood lighten.
But I agree with builder, leave it in the acetone for several days first, then try the steam.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,271 Likes: 93
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,271 Likes: 93 |
Maybe this method is the "Wonko" I'm not sure. But after soaking in acetone for a few days. Attack the dark areas with this mixture. One part bleach, one part Mr. Clean. Warm the mixture and use a medium bristle brush and start scrubbing. After a few minutes move the stock over a hot plate or some kind of heat source. The dark area should lighten up.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34 |
Steaming wood will lighten it too. Steaming wood will also swell the wood slightly, and that may be enough to solve the problem of sanding the cheeks lightly. Mask off the checkering and sand around it, then blend the color when you finish the stock.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 666 Likes: 45 |
If I take the pad off and put it back in the acetone for a couple of days will it potentially cause fitment issues with reinstalling the pad? It has a spur and was an involved fit. How can you tell if the head of the stock is oil soaked? None really came out through the stripping process. Also, I already applied some goat tuff glue in the inletting areas of the head. 
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