I was thinking about having the Tig done by a welder or machine shop and do the filing myself. I have shaped things with a file and I know something of metal work as I worked in a machine shop running an overhead mill as a youngster in high school
If you decide to do this yourself, remember to use a welder who is very proficient in precision welding. Years ago, I decided to ask a co-worker who was certified to weld on nuclear reactors to TIG weld a hammer for me, figuring he had to be very good. He wasn't, and I ended up re-doing it myself. And filing/stoning the welded hook is also a job requiring careful work and precision. You want to make your cuts as perfectly square as possible to perfectly mate up with the pin which is why builder recommended using an oil lamp to smoke fit the hook. A close fit that is only bearing on a couple points is going to get loose again rather quickly. You may do very well on your first try, but I myself would be reluctant to practice on anything but a low quality junker. Too many good guns get screwed up by well meaning people who bite off more than they are prepared to chew.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
stan: i certainly would not! but, i am not so sure about you!
as i recall, you are the one who drags a fine browning bss thru the georgia swamps and mud...i too spent some time in a georgia swamp along the altamaha...but, with my trusty stevens 94...
Army and Navy guns come in all Original Quality grades from best work to colonial/farmer grade. The economics of repair/restoration depend heavily on the amount/cost of work and the likely before and after value of the gun. A colonial/farmer grade gun of any brand is not going to warrant much repair cost.
I think at one time mine was a pretty nice box lock. But it has seen some hard times. I bought it as a wall hanger and got it cheap. It is a better gun then I expected it to be. If things work out the way I'm forecasting I will have a decent English shooter for about $250. That is about the cost of a used Mossberg.
Here is a MidwayUSA video showing how to shim the hook to put a double back on face. (About middle of the video.) I've used my own version of this process a few times. Pretty easy and nearly no cost involved.
Personally I wouldn't weld a lump! This is my late father's Parker which was terribly loose and off-face. Years ago my father took it to 'Hard Chrome Services' & told them how many thou of chrome he wanted put into the hook & on the sides of the lump, he allowed excess so as he could then fit it using oil-stones and bearing blue. The platers protected the rest of the metal and hard chrome was only added where dad specified, the pen indicates where the chrome starts. This photo doesn't do the finished job justice as the inside of the hook and the chromed sides of the lump are mirror finish, what appear to be imperfections on the chrome surfaces are grease that I hadn't removed. The chrome used was the type used on machine shafts etc., not what you'd find on an old car bumper. Cheers
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