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Forums10
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46 |
I am relatively new to the art of color case hardening and work mostly on LC Smith and other double barrels for my personal use. I have colored 2 of these guns with decent success. I am looking for a more accurate coloring with consistent results than just dumping the receiver from a rectangle crucible similar to brownells pipe crucible. Does anyone have any advice in a crucible design, way the receiver needs to hit quench, shielding, etc. I have seen some pretty good results from some on the forum. Thanks in advance
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405 |
Reading of oscar gaddys articles in DGJ on the topic would be a good start.
You can try to wade through the posts on this forum on the topic, but well over half the posts you will find are nonsense instigated by one particular member who knows nothing of the process.
B.Dudley
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Here you go, 31 pages of discussion and information. http://marlin-collectors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3732Regards Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46 |
Thanks for the info. I have looked at Dr. Gaddys articles and know what you mean by the posts on this subject. I am hoping to attain a factory look and know that the way it hits the water is crucial. I have experimented but hate to anneal and recolor more than twice in trying to come up with factory like colors. Hopefully someone will chime in that's figured this out. Any pictures, descriptions, and info is greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195 |
For your first trial and error experiments blow air through the water in the quenching tank. Also add various amounts of Potassium Nitrate to the quenching water.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46 |
I usually aerate my quench barrel for about 2 hours before quenching the parts and turn it off before I dump the parts. Does anyone use a cage fixture to hold the receiver??? I've never used the Potassium Nitrate. Thanks, Zachary
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212 |
I believe potassium nitrate can help create 'blue' colors, a little seems to go a long way. I'd keep track of how much is used, too much might blacken a part. I would definitely suppose, other folks might get different effects.
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 312 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 312 Likes: 1 |
I am relatively new to the art of color case hardening and work mostly on LC Smith and other double barrels for my personal use. I have colored 2 of these guns with decent success. Thanks in advance Would love to see some pictures of the results - its something i have never tried.
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 46 |
This is one of the ones I've done. Looks fairly decent but doesn't quite look factory. Stock isn't finished in the photo. I am currently building a larger heat treat oven to handle a larger crucible. I am wanting to build a cage to hold the receiver that has built in shielding to hold the coal close to the receiver as it falls into the quench. Thanks for the advice and keep the info coming. Zachary [url=[URL=http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/zhopkins1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160704_123814_zpsa3tj2ge3.jpg.html] [/url]]lc smith[/url]
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 909 Likes: 43
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 909 Likes: 43 |
Nicely done. Several questions that you can either not answer or be vague as you choose. What temp. did you go up to, how long did you hold it? What temp. did you quench? What charcoal and what % of wood to bone. I have been told that while you don't want bubbles in the water, some movement is desired. Is you crucible lid on tight? Do you knock or take the lid off or dump it into the water? How much water and at what temp. ? What was the minimum amount of pack between the piece and the crucible wall? Do you re-use the charcoal for any reason? Did the blocking you used to prevent warping parts have better colors than the action? I'm just trying to get a system that is repeatable. any input you chose to share will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Mark
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