doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com "Surface Rust"

I am looking at a Field Grade LC Smith, 1929 vintage. It seems pretty solid mechanically with no defects that I can find. I'm no expert but I'd put the case colors at 80% maybe more. The problem is that there are quite a few spots of what I call surface rust. On a blued surface I've removed such spots successfully with Break Free CLP and bronze wool without damaging the bluing. I know that case colors are much more delicate. Does anyone have any experience removing such spots? Iwas thinking maybe Ren wax on bronze wool??? I'm not trying for perfection just a clean up. Any ides/suggestions would be appreciated.

Phil

I'm sure you know not to use something too abrasive. That said simpliest way to remove surface rust prolly is a drop of oil and fine steel wool. Never used bronze........guess it be alright.
Good luck with it!

After removed, I'd clean and use a drop of tru oil on the Case color.

I'd try WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. I'm surprised bronze wool didn't leave some brassy color on the metal, but your experience didn't show that. I can't imagine why Ren-Wax would remove rust. It would prevent it, but is not a remover of anything, that I know of.

an ultra sonic cleaner does wonders.
Steve

Philbert,
I think you've got the right approach. A fine Bronze Brush or Bronze Wool is softer than a blued finish and is always better than Steel Wool which will remove bluing. Case Color is also a fragile surface, so again stay away from steel wool. I'd brush the rust spots very lightly with Bronze Wool soaked in Breakfree or a fine gun oil.

I have heard of using Hoppe's 9 on surface rust. Let it soak in before you remove it. Also Kroil works great on rust.

Use some Hoppe's 9 or some light gun oil, soak the area with a drop or two, take a utility single edge razor blade and shave the rust off, a little at a time. Rust is softer than steel, and you will feel the blade as it scrapes through the rust and contacts the case hardened receiver metal. You will not mar the steel or case finish if you keep the angle shallow and feel the rust. Just like the skin on your cheek. If the rust is more than a couple of thousandths thick, you will need to re-oil it and shave it again until gone. You will have fine dark pits in the remaining steel, but not as bad as the surface rust. Steel wool of any grade will leave a burnished appearance on the receiver which is a dead give-away. Shaving will not.

Thanks for all the good comments.

Yes, bronze wool can/will leave a goldish cast (I had forgotten about that).

I like Limapapa's suggestion of "shaving" the rust off.

I've heard that Break Free, etc could remove case colors so I was thinking about using BLO or Tru Oil as a lubricant.

Any thoughts?

I've used the edge of copper 'wheat' pennies and Klean Bore Formulae 3 to remove surface rust from blued surfaces. Any coppper color wipes right off. Rotate the penny's edge as it wears. The penny is softer than the blue finish, so it does not/will not mar. Keep the surface wet when doing the rubbing. You can safely use some pressure, but no need to go overboard, rather keep a fresh edge forward.

I have not had occasion to use the technique on a case colored finish.

NO WD-40 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Like the Vermouth in a good Martini, WD-40 should be kept in a locked closet when a gun is in the room.
The reason for using oil when removing (using steel wool, bronze wool or a penny as the tool) corrosion is to "float" off the particles. The oxides are harder than the "tool" and the oil prevents scratching.
I like to use an old brass shell casing. It is rounded enough to allow only a small surface to meet the steel of the part. The smallest area possible should be eroded.
Best,
John