doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com LC Smith 10 gauge hammer gun - newest new project

This gun is F grade. This one has been polished bright. What would have been the original finish on the action and barrels?

I'm thinking a longer screw of the same size and thread as the action latch post screw may be a better idea than sticking a puch in the hole. Less chance of damaging the threads.

It would have been case hardened/colored. I am guessing the barrels were blued or browned then etched.

A long 4-40 screw will not have the strength to pull the top lever spring over. It will break.

There are no springs under the firing pins. Should there be?

The barrels are marked LC SMITH MAKER . SYRACUSE N.Y. on one and STUB TWIST BARRELS on the other.

There is one old gunsmith reasonably close that still may do color/case. I may take it up with him. It's going to be a real problem keeping these old guns up and running when so many of the old gunsmiths pass on.

No springs in the firing pins holes.

You are right in Missouri, take or send them to Buck Hamlin, he does great work on L.C. Smiths.

I've not heard of that gentleman. I'm not planning to need a gunsmith on this project. I watch for old guns that need a repair that I can handle.

I keep adding to what I can do. On my Colt 1878 project it needed a top lever spring. Instead of searching the world over and paying out the nose, I bought spring stock and made it myself. I also made one for a Hopkins and Allen double.

I got the chunk of wood that was busted off the buttstock pinned back on this afternoon. It looks good. I'll let the Acraglas cure over night before continuing to other areas of the breakout that need attention.

My LC Smith restore project is inching along. As this is a hobby project, I work on it as time and mood strike me.

I'm well along with the buttstock breakout repair. I'm making video of the process. I have some more repair work but last evening I cleaned up the inlays for the top tang, locks and trigger plate. That is each part individually - not assembled.

To assemble the action over and over in the final fitting process, it would be much easier if the top lever was removed as the shaft has to be pushed over to assemble the trigger plate.

What is involved in removing the top lever and action shaft? And then reassembly?

No need to take the lever off. Removing the top lever spring will make assembly easy. Be careful removing the spring so it does not launch into some dark corner .

I tripped the action to lessen the tension on the spring but it's still had a lot of pressure. I don't see a clear way to compress it to remove it. Pry it up starting from the end that's against the action post?

When I'm faced with a possible flying spring, I try to work under a towl or if it's a small coil spring, by working inside a Zip-loc bag. Eye protection would be a good idea.

I'm always amazed at how strong the springs are in most all old guns.

I tap it lightly away at the post end until I can get a small screw driver under it . Then pry it up carefully till it is about half way out of the recess. Now compress and remove with pliers . Covering with a rag is a good idea. Always use glasses in the shop.

Getting down to the short rows on my LC Smith project. I got the trigger plate welded and dresses down. It doesn't look perfect but a guy has to know when to quit. I finished up some fill work with Acraglas and started some final fitting. Looking good. I should have stopped.

I made a post pushing tool similar JDW pictured but used a small bar clamp. The fixed end jaw of the clamp has a plastic shield that slips off. I just slipped off the plastic shield and drilled a hole in it. I cut back an 8d nail and slipped it through the hole in the shield and then reinstalled the shield onto the clamp plate.

With parts fitted and tool made, I started to assemble the action to the buttstock. A bit of a struggle holding everything inline and working the post pusher tool. It was working but not well. Then crack. The tool slipped and the nail in the hole split a crack in the stock. Not a major crack. It won't be hard to repair. But it's going to delay the project.

I think I figured out two things. 1) The hole for the pin to enter to push the post needs to be bigger and slightly further back than I made it. 2) The left sideplate needs to be in place so the clamp will have a uniform platform to rest the clamp on.