doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com BSA hinge

Looked again at the action, the gun belongs to a friend. There is no screw on the knuckle to act either as retainer to the pin or as anchor for the extractor cam. The cam appears to be one piece with the action knuckle.

I do not exclude rust on the threads as a cause for the sticking, however there is no hint of visible rust anywhere on this BSA and overall it is in excellent shape.

Failing pin removal it seems that bringing it back on face will have to be done solely via filling the hook.

Still would like to know about the that thread though, just academic like, whether it is left or right hand thread.

If the BSA has dovetailed lumps welding the hook is not a good option. Welding across a solder or braze joint will bring no joy!

No welding, not when I can help it! A shim is a better option and follows the adage "do no harm". The setback required is in the region of 6 thou, easily within the capabilities of shim stock. A shim can be soft soldered and stay in place if the prep work is done properly. I used a Pape that had a shim in place for 30 years.

I have in my past watched machinists with way more patience than I work away at a stuck bolt for what seemed like forever. Soak it, heat it, try it again and again. I would have been blue in the face and swearing that it has to be drilled out. Lo and behold, out it comes. Makes you want to kick the guy who got it out.
nial

Impact driver and a 2 pound hammer!
Shimming may give you .006" at the back of the hook but it will give you .012" off the diameter so the chances are the pin will nor reach the back of the hook and so not have a proper bearing .

Well, the shim will be smoked in, the top and bottom areas scraped so as to have the fullest contact possible with the pin.

The thought of the impact driver is scary. I guess it is all comes down to familiarity and experience as with any process.

In the meantime it is anointed twice daily with penetrating oil hoping that it will do the trick gently.

Yes, yes, yes! The most important tools you can have for removing a frozen screw on a gun are patience and a really good penetrating oil. Sometimes extreme measures and great force are required to get things moving, but if you do that with threads that didn't get a chance to get lubricated with penetrating oil, you risk galling or stripping them. Then you've really got problems that no amount of heating or soaking is going to help.

Just as nialmac says, I have had screws that defied all of my efforts of soaking, heating, rapid freezing, vibration, etc., so I just soaked them down with a GOOD penetrating oil, and wrapped the area with Saran wrap to keep it from evaporating, and set it aside. Often, when I went back at it 5 or 6 months later, it broke free as if it was never stuck. We have had discussions about GOOD penetrating oils here before. To me, Kroil isn't even in the top 50%.

Huh? There are literally thousands of dovetail lumped guns that have been rejointed by welding the hook. I've never seen an example that had the lumps come loose either. I've also seen chopper lump barrels that have had their hooks welded. Or...are you talking about barrels put together like a model 21? The BSA design is actually a combo of both. 99% of Damascus barrels are dovetail lump construction.
Maybe just too over generalized of a term and it caught my attention.

I'm talking about solder contaminating the weld.

Most, though admittedly "Not All" dovetail lumps are brazed on, not soldered. In either case there should be no solder in the hook.