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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369 Likes: 3 |
Has anyone looked into using clear Duracoat to preserve color case hardening? Seems like a much better idea than lacquer ?
AIN'T MUCH A MAN CAN'T FIX WITH SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS AND A THIRTY OUGHT SIX
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,085 Likes: 478
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,085 Likes: 478 |
I've used Duracoat on guns. Once it's on, it stays. It's a two part paint, probably epoxy. Some clear epoxies will yellow due to UV exposure. I don't know if it has UV inhibitors. Check with Duracoat. I wouldn't put it on an expensive gun because of its permanent nature. For that matter, nor would I have a gun lacquered.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,468 Likes: 207
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,468 Likes: 207 |
Oh durn, now a gunsmith has to have a paint cabinet? Mike
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,964 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,964 Likes: 89 |
Just remember that good old Formby's gloss Tung oil is awfully good for protecting case colors. And it's easily removed.
When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,278 Likes: 11
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,278 Likes: 11 |
If you are actually going to use the gun you would want something durable. Nothing is permanent no matter how much you would like it to be and lac is far from it. And tung oil is little better. I use a spray poly and even it needs a re-do every couple years.
have another day
Dr. WtS
Dr.WtS Mysteries of the Cosmos Unlocked available by subscription
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520 |
I don't know what clear Duracoat could have in it that is better than clear Polyurethane.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
If you use regular lacquer at least it is easily removed and then reapplied.
One of the things about lacquer that is talked about by the furniture refinishers is that if it is buffed after application, it wears and spots much faster. Applying your coats (I use three at least) lightly, then waxing afterwards (three coats again, with a fairly hard wax) seems to prolong the life of the finish. Periodic reapplication of wax, depending upon usage, protects and prevents damage to to the lacquer.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Dewey Vicknair
Unregistered
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Dewey Vicknair
Unregistered
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Here are a few points to ponder,
The parts that are case hardened are usually made of a low-carbon steel and the hard surface is needed for wear resistance. The colors are simply a pleasant byproduct of the process, they are not the reason for the process.
The colors themselves are very thin (microns), far less than .001", while the actual hardened layer could be anywhere from .002"-.010" thick. Even when the colors are gone, the hard surface remains.
The colored "layer" is extremely fragile. Handling, cleaning and UV exposure will cause them to fade. This is unavoidable.
Often the case hardened frame (or other part) is engraved so preserving the engraver's work must also be taken into account.
This is where lacquer shows its superiority as a "finish" for case hardened parts. Lacquer, when properly applied, will not obscure even the smallest engraving detail. This is because of the way that it shrinks as it dries. Polyurethane and any catalyzed (two-part) finish are comparatively thicker to start with and generally don't shrink when dry and could actually fill engraved details. Since most catalyzed finishes are chemical proof, removal would necessarily be by some mechanical (abrasive) means which the colors obviously would not survive. I would never advise such a permanent finish over something something so impermanent as case hardening colors. Lacquer is instantly removable in either acetone or lacquer thinner, neither of which will harm the colors in any way. It is just as easily renewed.
I would also never consider waxing case colors. Applied over a bare colored surface, the abrasives (VERY fine but still there, especially in automotive wax) would almost instantly remove the colors. There is no reason to wax a lacquered surface unless that surface is part of your car.
Lots of people wring their hands over this, but the fact is that the colors will fade. The only precautions one can take to minimize it (while still actually using the gun) are a coat of lacquer, minimal handling of the colored area(s) and casing it when outdoors but not shooting.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,085 Likes: 478
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,085 Likes: 478 |
Dewey, thanks for your expert opinion. That's why you get the big bucks. Gil
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520 |
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