doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Barrel rust blue preparation/polishing

Here's my "Carding Bench" set-up. It's pretty basic, yet contains what I consider the minimum as far as tools and equipment. Even though they say that a picture is worth a thousand words, I'll provide an explanation for some of the items. So, instead of a "thousand words" perhaps people can learn a "thousand things" and avoid some of the mistakes that I initially made.



Everything above the bench is self-explanatory. Solutions, both full and diluted strength, as well as the drawers holding the various abrasives seen on the bench.

Left top, respirator and gloves. Optivisor at the top middle. Far left are my barrel holders, dowels in blocks that then fit into the notches of the flat holders. It divides the work into four parts. Far right are the carding wheels, a four-row on the corded drill, a one row on the small cordless one. I prefer to use the one row on ribs and tight areas, it's easier to see the tips hitting the metal, and it eliminated the temptation to "bear down" with the four-row wheel.

Specific abrasives in the middle. Used after the power carding. Green pad is only used in initial barrel prep, it's too coarse for further use. Next to it is a fine Scotchbrite (purple) pad. It has only very limited use, using only small pieces of it on specific small spots. It's best use is the final burnishing pad right before the first rust. Next to that is 000 synthetic (grey) steel wool. I use small pieces of it in the forceps to work on small areas, usually on pattern-welded barrels.
Lastly, we have 0000 degreased steel wool. This is what I use in conjunction with the shaped craft sticks for the small areas. Especially along the top rib. Strokes are very short, so as not to leave streaks.

The bottom of the bench shows what I use for application. A pair of forceps I clamp a sponge into. The sponge is squeezed well, for an even application. I use a Q-tip for the top rib joint, so there's not an excess of solution in the joint. Immediately after application, I use the heat gun to dry the barrels in order that there are no runs or streaks. The syringe is there to remind people to have one if flushing the ribs is necessary. An air compressor is the preferred method. The barrels are then put on a hanger and hung in the rusting cabinet. Lastly, I then use the file card to lightly dress the sides of the four-row wheel back to straight, so I'm ready for the next barrel.

This is pretty much what you need, but you could certainly hand card if only doing a few barrels.

Regards
Ken

Good job Ken, thanks for posting your bench details and picture. After 50 years plus of rust bluing guns, albeit part time, I am slowly getting a handle on it. Still haven't figured out how to keep my fingers from cracking, gloves or no gloves, but I polish and card everything by hand, so no wheels, mills or laborers of any kind.

I finished up these 16 gauge Sterlingworth barrels yesterday for a member here.














Best,

Doug, those are some nice looking barrels. When you ship them back to the member, will you use some 3" PVC pipe to mail them or will you throw them into a cardboard mailing tube?

I bet that member got "the lecture" from Doug about proper shipping of barrels just like I did last year when he did my Sarriugarte barrels. I got the same lecture again from Doug when I sent my Fox and my Remington stock to him for repair. I wouldn't trust my barrels or stocks to anyone but Doug.

Beautiful Doug,

You've really got the "Field Gray Blue" down to a science. From now on I'm always going to be comparing the barrels I do to your work.

I had to take a few days off myself recently, a crack in my thumb became infected. Usually, if I catch'em early, clean, and then apply Superglue they don't get infected.

It dawned on me recently that you are possibly the "Friend in Utah" that Tony Treadwell referred to in his Blog.

Its amazing how fast he can do them too ! He was telling me this morning how easy it was and took 15 mins for the whole job !

Just kidding of course, I have told Doug several times;
"I don't know what your charging but its not enough !"

You can see the attention to every detail and how good that deep blue looks when its done.

I have it on good authority JRB that the member DID receive the lecture. Both on barrels and stocks! He's glad to hear he wasn't the only one. LOL

PA24, I installed heating elements in my tank and it certainly boils water. Only complaint is it only boils about 8" worth on each end. You don't have this issue? I'm probably going to swap the elements for longer ones.

gunmaker,

You can put longer elements in your tank or just add two small additional elements low on each side. Do a little homework on what elements are available, there are quite a few out there. When it is boiling, all the water is boiling, just not all bubbling at once, this has no negative effect on how nice the barrels blue/black. The longer it runs the more aggressive the boiling bubbles will become.

In fact my tanks bubble too aggressively and I shut down one element to slow the bubbling and alternate off/on from end to end during my rusting cycles to maintain an even water temperature.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Anyone ever polish beyond 400-600 grit before rust blueing?