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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 601 Likes: 39
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 601 Likes: 39 |
A question for those using the traditional method of alkenet root in linseed oil.
Do you recommend adding a dryer to the oil & how heavily do you oil the stock between applications?
The reason I'm asking is that I have heard that the color is better with oil than with the spirit based method but getting the stock to dry can be an issue.
I've used various commercial spirit based stains with fair to very good results but I've never been 100% satisfied & I would like to give alkenet root a try.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,544
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,544 |
No, just raw linseed oil. You can put scores of coats on, it sinks in and deepens the colour, can take a couple of weeks to get to where you want to be. The weather proof finish is the rubbed oil, which does have driers.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
I consider the 50/50 walnut/linseed mix to be better that straight linseed oil. Quality of the oil is important, The food grade oils are superior to the stuff from the hardware store. The linseed oil is raw, not "Boiled" (without drying agents). I've read that some folks gently preheat the wood with a heat gun or blow dryer. Coats are very light, only a few drops briskly rubbed into the stock with the heel of your hand, the friction heat helping the oil to penetrate. I'm following the traditional "Once an hour for a day, once a day for a month, once a month for a year" method. My shop's humidity is low, if it wasn't I'd consider a drying cabinet.. Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
I consider the 50/50 walnut/linseed mix to be better that straight linseed oil. Quality of the oil is important, The food grade oils are superior to the stuff from the hardware store. The linseed oil is raw, not "Boiled" (without drying agents). I've read that some folks gently preheat the wood with a heat gun or blow dryer. Coats are very light, only a few drops briskly rubbed into the stock with the heel of your hand, the friction heat helping the oil to penetrate. I'm following the traditional "Once an hour for a day, once a day for a month, once a month for a year" method. My shop's humidity is low, if it wasn't I'd consider a drying cabinet. Once done, I use a high quality wax on the stock. Ken
Last edited by Ken61; 04/08/14 08:15 AM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Mine are very dark, both the stain and the oil. When I hold the jars up to the light, you can't see light through them, it's like very dark ink.. Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 103 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 103 Likes: 3 |
Has anyone tried using it to color French Polish? And how well does it work for same?
Thanks, J.
Welder
______________________________________ It's all In the State of Mind - Wintle
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8 |
Any particular reason why would walnut/linseed mix be better than straight linseed oil? Thanks.
With kind regards, Jani
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 601 Likes: 39
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 601 Likes: 39 |
No, just raw linseed oil. You can put scores of coats on, it sinks in and deepens the colour, can take a couple of weeks to get to where you want to be. The weather proof finish is the rubbed oil, which does have driers. Small Bore, Thank you. That is the insight I was looking for.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Any particular reason why would walnut/linseed mix be better than straight linseed oil? Thanks.
With kind regards, Jani It appears to go on smoother and dry a little faster,with being less gummy. It also feels lighter when I apply it, but it may be my imagination. I also speculate that it is more "Natural" since its the same type of oil that the wood originally grew with, and it might help the wood not to deteriorate over time, mainly since its a nut (tree) vs. a grain oil. It also smells better. Lastly, I consider my info source (damascus) to be knowledgable and therefore valid.
Last edited by Ken61; 04/08/14 01:08 PM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,763 Likes: 8 |
Thanks for your explanation, Ken.
With kind regards, Jani
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