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#35400 04/11/07 11:00 PM
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postoak Offline OP
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I need advice on what type of Recoil Pad Jig to purchase, or build. Or should a good Craftsman be able to do a good job without a Jig ?


Mine's a tale that can't be told, my freedom I hold dear.


postoak #35401 04/11/07 11:15 PM
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I have been using one like the B-Square Brownells sells for many years and like it.


> Jim Legg <

postoak #35559 04/13/07 07:07 AM
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I have never used one, as I grind all my pads on the gun. Using a jig, I am pretty certain you still need to do the final trimming by hand anyway; the big advantage is that there's no chance of hitting the finish with the disc. With a good strong light and a good wobble-free disc sander, you can reduce the possibility of messing up the stock finish. I think you'll get cleaner toe and heel angles on the pad if you grind it installed on the stock. Just may way of doing it, not nesessarily the right way; works for me.

postoak #35560 04/13/07 07:08 AM
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I have never used one, as I grind all my pads on the gun. Using a jig, I am pretty certain you still need to do the final trimming by hand anyway; the big advantage is that there's no chance of hitting the finish with the disc. With a good strong light and a good wobble-free disc sander, you can reduce the possibility of messing up the stock finish. I think you'll get cleaner and more accurate toe and heel angles on the pad if you grind it installed on the stock. Just may way of doing it, not nesessarily the right way; works for me.

postoak #35561 04/13/07 07:08 AM
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I have never used one, as I grind all my pads on the gun. Using a jig, I am pretty certain you still need to do the final trimming by hand anyway; the big advantage is that there's no chance of hitting the finish with the disc. With a good strong light and a good wobble-free disc sander, you can reduce the possibility of messing up the stock finish. I think you'll get cleaner and more accurate toe and heel angles on the pad if you grind it installed on the stock. Just may way of doing it, not nesessarily the right way; works for me.

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The one I choose is sold by Brownell and is a fixture that hangs from an inverted "J" shaped rod. It can be adjusted to accomidate all angles of the stock. This fixture has been sold ny Brownell for decades and in my opinion is the best ---- I have tried them all. The one I own was purchased around 40 years ago from the makers in Norfolk , Va.before they were sold by Brownell --- never had a minutes problem with it.



Ken Hurst
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Used a hand drill with a rubber support and sand paper disc. Then finished by hand.
Rather satisfied with the result. It was my first.

JC(AL)


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JayCee #35578 04/13/07 09:46 AM
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I agree with Craig. You have to be careful but it works for me to.

Gordon


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I have in my shop a B-Sqare jig, Sanding disc, (forgot the brand name) one from Brownell's, and of course hand tools made for this job. All have their pros and cons. Again, these are tools in the hands of willing people. Even today, a stone axe will cut wood.

I guess it would stand to reason there is no better way than another. It is the person using the fixture that will determine whether or not the job is done well. The people above have proven their ability to do a good job. Now it is your turn. Go slow and don't be in a hurry. You will do well. Buy the tool you like the most and then learn to use it to it's best advantage.


Dennis Earl Smith/Benefactor Life NRA, ACGG Professional member
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I have always admired the one Ken uses. However, I bought one from Brownell's several years ago and the way it was assembled, the rods were not perpendicular to the base, so that the pad would have been cut crooked, all the way around. I sent it back and never tried again. Do you have to adjust it only once or once for the straight angles like the heel and sides and then change it for the toe angle? Does it have to be used on a big disc sander or will a wide belt work as well?
Thank you


> Jim Legg <

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