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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869 |
I have a stock I finished with Linseed oil/Turpentine/Japan dryer and waxed with Linseed/Turps/Beeswax. After going at the barrel today at the range with all sorts of cleaners I would like to go over the stock with a cleaner and then rub a little fresh oil in(if it will take throught the wax?)
Suggestions please?
Thanks, Mark
Ms. Raven
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
I'd use the same linseed/ turps solution on a clean terry cloth, then wipe the excess off. This should lift whatever grime you have accumulated before rubbing a couple of coats of new finish in.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869 |
Thank you Hansli for the suggestion, do you think that will neutralize any of the bore cleaner that might have gotten on the wood.....half tempted to go at it with a very diluted Murphy's Oil Soap solution, but have heard some opinions that would give me second thoughts.
I do not see any sour spots, just trying to be cautious.
Best, Mark
Ms. Raven
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
I'm not sure how bad a penetration problem you really have, I wouldn't worry about it. The terry fabric will give you a little scrubbing power that should remove the majority of the pollution and since you're using the the mother solution, any irregularities will be gently blended. Don't forget to wipe dry as possible the cleansing app. I'd avoid any other liquid, especially anything with water.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 869 |
Thank you Hansli, all good.
Best, Mark
Ms. Raven
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34 |
Before I re-oil a stock, I usually (if it's real dirty) wipe it down with mineral spirits, and give the checkering a light scrub with a toothbrush. This gets off all the grease from your hands and miscellaneous crud from the field, and it will remove just about any cleaning solvent that may have gotten on the wood. Will leave the wood looking a bit dry, but the re oiling takes care of that, and you don't build up a thick finish. The guys on the Parker site really like Murphy's oil soap, but they are a gentle lot.
Oh, and the mineral spirits will remove the wax so that your new oil will penetrate. Don't forget to oil the metal bits after cleaning with spirits.
Last edited by Replacement; 04/07/07 12:05 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
I bought an old MDL 52 for $75 that had what looked to be a tar finish. After rubbing it with 0000 steel wool and linseed oil, and wiping up the mess it came back very nicely. bill
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
I'll second Replacement's method as either an alternate or primer. Mineral spirits is a gentle solvent and lifts trash without attacking any cured finish I know of. The tooth brush in the checkering deserves note as well.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31 |
Mineral spirits cuts through the wax so that's good You could also cut through all the crud and grime with car body 'T' cut and when clean and dry re-apply a LIGHT coat of oil finish, rubbing it out VERY well.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,164 Likes: 11
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,164 Likes: 11 |
Apply boiled linseed oil to a polishing cloth then dip the oiled cloth into rotten stone polishing powder of the finest grade[feels like flour]. You will be amazed how polishing with this combination lifts oil,grease and dirt from the surface of the wood whilst at the same time restoring the polished finish. As previously suggested, use a tooth brush to clean the checkering. Dispose of any cloth coated in linseed oil in water, because linseed oil has the ability to create spontainious combustion.
Roy Hebbes
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