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Originally Posted By: CJF
I was wondering if folks had any observations to share about which boxlocks never split at the stock head...and why some designs might stand the tests of time and recoil better than others.

Stated differently, assuming the wood selected for the butt is appropriately grained, are there any designs that split out more frequently?

TIA, Chris


I'm thinking the Red Label Waterfowler will never have a split in the head of the stock.

Having said that, not too many of the millions of Beretta O/Us that roam the earth have a crack in them. I'd say they are doing something right.

Best,
Ted

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Originally Posted By: Ted Schefelbein
Originally Posted By: CJF
I was wondering if folks had any observations to share about which boxlocks never split at the stock head...and why some designs might stand the tests of time and recoil better than others.

Stated differently, assuming the wood selected for the butt is appropriately grained, are there any designs that split out more frequently?

TIA, Chris


I'm thinking the Red Label Waterfowler will never have a split in the head of the stock.

Having said that, not too many of the millions of Beretta O/Us that roam the earth have a crack in them. I'd say they are doing something right.

Best,
Ted


Well yes I don't think stainless Ruger O/U will have problems with polymer stock splitting. Great fowling guns by the way.

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They haven't been around but about 15 years. The Huglu made stock panels are robustly wedged into the reciever. I have never seen one cracked and maybe never will if the stock bolt is kept snug.

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W.W. Greener's answer to this problem was the side safety, so all that wood is not removed, that a tang safety requires. The safety itself, acts as a bolt through the cheeks, keeping the tangs from wedging it apart.

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Originally Posted By: 2holer
They haven't been around but about 15 years. The Huglu made stock panels are robustly wedged into the reciever. I have never seen one cracked and maybe never will if the stock bolt is kept snug.


Keeping the screws tight is the key on any make. This obviously requires good wood that is not saturated with oil. Any boxlock can become cracked from a fall, misuse or downright abuse. We look at a double with crack(s) at the head area and think "poor design", when we have no earthly idea what abuse the old gal has undergone for decades. One fall, where the butt hits the ground laterally (and it usually does) while the wrist and for-end are being clenched tightly, and it either breaks then and there or cracks appear.

SRH


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Its easier to fix a cracked stock than to put up with a Greener Side Safety In My "Not so Humble" Opinion.


Miller/TN
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I have never hunted with one, but it seems like you could carry it with the safety up, turned 90deg. from normal, and get along okay for fast action? Seems easier than a hammergun, and I get along fine with them. I think for a trap/pigeon gun, it would be fine, and help the wood stand up to thousands of heavy loads.
Originally Posted By: 2-piper
Its easier to fix a cracked stock than to put up with a Greener Side Safety In My "Not so Humble" Opinion.

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Unfortunately Baikal are not immune from stock head cracks even with a through bolt this is one of the very early over and under double trigger box lock models imported in to the UK in the 60s. This crack has been on my must fix it list for some thirty years but as the gun is one of my keepers it once belonged to a long time friend who is now telling those rather hilarious stories to any one who will listen in the here after. For the Brit readers Blaster Bates and any body reading you may like to listen to one of the best raconteurs Cheshire ever produced, you can get to know him on you tube try Blaster Bates “The Hunt”.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Originally Posted By: Bret Adams
I have never hunted with one, but it seems like you could carry it with the safety up, turned 90deg. from normal, and get along okay for fast action? Seems easier than a hammergun, and I get along fine with them. I think for a trap/pigeon gun, it would be fine, and help the wood stand up to thousands of heavy loads.
Originally Posted By: 2-piper
Its easier to fix a cracked stock than to put up with a Greener Side Safety In My "Not so Humble" Opinion.


Greener suggested a hunter carry his gun with safety off and paying close attention to where it is pointed (Modern Breechloaders). Even he could not operate it fast enough on flushing game. But that was also how many suggested carrying hammer guns--fully cocked.


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Never say never...

... but I'd venture a guess that drawbolt designs are less susceptible to cracking, in general.

"Tang Pinch" designs seem to be fine until the action gets loose. Then it splits a stock like Abe Lincoln.

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