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Joined: Dec 2008
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Question, Answer and a few tips.

Are the Dakota Model 10's and Dakota's Miller action about the same ? Seen a lot of Millers never looked at a Model 10. MP is correct on the 25 Krag. It's about the same case capacity as a 257 Roberts. My 25K in a CPA action gives velocity about between 250/3000 and 257 Roberts with mild loads. If you need a rim the Krag is a good case. If no rim the Roberts case would be my choice. If a short rimless is needed 250/3000 in a bolt action can be loaded to nearly Roberts velocity

On the lever resistance generally on a single shot it's controlled by the link and how it's fitted. Some actions have a tension spring pushing against the block from the receiver, Little grease on the bearing surfaces makes a big difference.

Boats

CJF #331805 07/23/13 03:04 PM
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The sight is missing to clear the scope. If you look closely at mine the scope is virtually sitting in the V of the rear sight notch.
The first movement to close and open a #10 is affected by the tightening of the through-bolt. It is to involved to explain, and I've always thought it odd, but that's the way they are.
You can check it out be loosening the through bolt 1/8 turn an trying the action... it will be easier to open and close. Once you have witnessed this phenomena, retighten the bolt.

The 45-70 case will almost for sure hang-up on the lip of the mortice. I've made a spring & plunder assembly to lift the block flush after initial extraction, but only for complete custom jobs. As said, the case is big enough to get your fingers on, a bit large for the action maybe, but they are plenty strong.
I suspect that would be the larger action??

Nice looking rifle (even if I don't think 4140 should be case hardened...)
BTW: my sidelever has a 28" barrel, and weighs 10+lb.. Nothing like the MIller action which was designed and made with absolutely no concern for the aesthetic.

Last edited by SDH-MT; 07/23/13 06:22 PM.
CJF #331806 07/23/13 03:21 PM
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Sidelock
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Reject Dakota guard casting...snapdragon.

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SDH-MT,
Have you checked to see if the end of the through-bolt is bearing on something that makes it harder to open if tight.If that is the case, it is my considered opinion that it would be better to shorten the bolt than loosen it.
Mike

CJF #331825 07/23/13 06:13 PM
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Is anybody else a little itchy about the idea of a .25 Krag in a Lowall?

(I'm assuming you mean an original Win 1885, not a Japanese "Winchester 1885 Low Wall," which probably WOULD handle it OK).

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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
SDH-MT,
Have you checked to see if the end of the through-bolt is bearing on something that makes it harder to open if tight.If that is the case, it is my considered opinion that it would be better to shorten the bolt than loosen it.
Mike

Now what do you think?
I know what and why just too complicated to explain...
Loosen only to check it out, then retighten.

CJF #331859 07/23/13 11:00 PM
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Thank you everyone for your comments.

I was able to try the trigger today using a 44-40 case with tape over the primer. Not a snap cap but at least a chance to experience the trigger pull before this weekend (nice pull on this one.)

Ryan - Here's a full length shot. Barrel is 28" from muzzle to rear of chamber. This seems a very appropriate length to match the relatively large bore of the 45-70. For me this calls to mind an English or Scottish stalking rifle of the 1890s. Definitely need to get a rear sight back in place. A matted surface with a platinum vertical line would be perfect (too bad I'm tapped out after the rifle purchase...will need to be a plain sight for awhile.)

[img:left][/img]

I really like the grain as it flows through the wrist and curves up to reach to receiver on the perpendicular.
[img:left][/img]

SDH - I have your book on double shotguns and enjoyed it. Just sent off an order for the custom rifles book.

While I like the Dakota lever, the version you created for the 257 Roberts pictured on your site (and in your earlier post), is an improvement. I like the way it fills the gap between the bow and the lever, like the Westley Richards design, without the massiveness of the WR version. Nice.

You mentioned a plunger and spring as a way to bring the top surface of the block back even with the cartridge raceway. I was wondering if that approach was needed because the lever has to travel past the point with the block is level to fully eject the case? Is this why the design allows what otherwise seems non-beneficial lever over-travel?

Chris

Last edited by CJF; 07/23/13 11:01 PM. Reason: spelling
CJF #331866 07/24/13 12:20 AM
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Sidelock
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Years ago (mid 90's) you could purchase a youth fitted #97 from Dakota Arms, I believe you could begin at age 9 and you could trade stocks to fit your child for free until he hit age 18, at that time you could trade in the gun at the price you paid ($1900?) on another model. I thought it was an interesting program.

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Sidelock
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Like to see a model 10 apart one time.

Low Wall in 25 Krag would not be a good idea. They are Pistol Caliber Actions

Boats

CJF #331928 07/24/13 03:45 PM
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Sidelock
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Chris, Looks even better full length. (The Custom Rifles book is on the way, Thanks.) Sorry but "why" questions about mechanical design are just to complicated to answer here. Try your rifle with a fired case then tell us what happens.
Attached is a poor quality cut-away view sent to me by Dakota years ago.

There is a more than passing resemblance to Martin Hagn's design, (without Martin's approval, including mainspring, sear, trigger and extractor). At one time Don Allan was very interested in my updates, he told me, "Send lots of detailed pictures". Don was well known in the trade for co-opting other people's ideas.
BTW: The company was doing firing pin conversions free last time I checked...
Best, Steve

Hagn Action with external mods.

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