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Joined: Mar 2005
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Sidelock
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I have a percussion double barreled shotgun built between 1929 and 1931, the Spanish proof marks on the barrel, built by <AMR>. I have hunted with it and found it to be a blast, you talk about injecting life back into the hunt. I have also monitored some of the auctions for these doubles noting a particular strange one!! There's a George H. Daw on Gunbroker. The strange thing is that the bidding gets up there and the owner doesn't sell. Then its back on there again. This Daw has been beautifully refinished!!! Also on Gunbroker is a Thomas Bland that has been updated with fluid steel barrels!! Good stuff if you like muzzleloaders.

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Originally Posted By: Jim Legg
It would sure be thoughtful if you would delete one of your duplicate posts*, especially when they are as long as the old testament.
Thanks


*Please cite more than the single instance to which you are referring. There are no others, of which I'm aware, but would certainly weed the garden, were I notified of the fact..

It would also be thoughtful if the edit function worked in the first post. It doesn't, won't, is hidden, and I've tried numerous times to make it work. You've known me long enuff to know that leaving dupe posts is not my normal 'Net manners.

As to the post itssowns'ef? Feel free not to read it. I do the same for you. Btw, I have noticed a change in the tenor of y'r address to folks here, Jim. What happened, that brought on an evident anger and consequent on-line posture? I've been hoping for quite a while, that y'd work you way around to being the former and quite likable Jim Legg that usta post here.

Nothin' personal, Jim. Just an observation I've kept to myself, as I have and will continue to refrain from comment or involvement about assorted other BBS things or personalities. Life is short. I'll see if Dave can't remove that offending eyesore. The continued existence of the un-edited first one bothers me, too.

Bon,

John


Relax; we're all experts here.
OldMaineWoodsman #31644 03/20/07 09:09 AM
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From: Two BP Lubes for the do it y'rselfer:

SEE discussion

BTW: for those of tender sensibilites, substitute y'r own handles on the reciepts, so as to make them more palatable in disscussion with perlite company.

Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.

Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 4 TABLESPOONS
Castor Oil 1 1/2 TABLESPOONS
Murphys Oil Soap 1 1/2 TEASPOONS
Witch Hazel 2 TABLESPOONS
Water (non-chlorinated) 1/2 CUP


Stumpy's Moose Snot


A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water to the pot so that the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will often be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a generous teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy, smooth and more smearable - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.


Relax; we're all experts here.
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Started shooting ML in 1970- went to Friendship in 71- shot mostly pistol and some shotgun. I've built five pistols and twelve long guns. Three years ago I shot a deer with a 12ga matchlock I built. I tried for two years to shoot a deer with that gun [ a little more trouble with a burning wick]. I don't go to Friendship anymore after 28 years, but still shot the local matchs and hunt only with a muzleloader or SxS hammergun. Paul

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I probably shouldn't post after tee martoonees.


> Jim Legg <

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In shotgun, I shoot a 20ga and a 12ga sxs flint and an 8ga John Mullin sxs cap. I own one suppository shotgun, an old damascus 12ga sxs that my son shoots BP cartridges. I don't own a smokeless shotgun.


Tact is for those not clever enough to be sarcastic
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I started maybe 35 years ago with a replica Colt 1860 Army revolver. Gave it to a friend before moving up here. Bought a Lyman Great Plains .50 flinter from a friend maybe 20 years ago; I wound up trading that off, but replaced it with another .50 flinter (Pedersoli) from a friend's estate. Since then, I've accumulates a 16ga flint double, a .32 flinter, and Parker-Hale replica Enfield Pattern 1858 (Navy) Rifle, my only caplock.

Joel

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My first post here. This thread brings back memories of the very first Dixie Gunworks catalog I got in 1958. I remember it was about the size of a legal envelope nothing like the huge catalog it became in later years. I wanted one of those Dixie Squirrel rifles made in Belgium so bad I could taste it. Joe

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Welcome to the Board Old Joe!!!!
Dixie's Squirrel rifle did that look like their later Tennessee Mountain rifle with that Cherry stock?
All the best

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I’ve been building guns for (Gawd!) about 30 years now. I’ve done a couple modern guns, but mostly I build flinters. Started out with longrifles, sort of to carry on the tradition of my ancestors – the Pennsylvania Germans who built the original longrifles. My reason was that I was having a hard time enjoying killing deer and I thought that hunting with my own handmade flinter would bring back the thrill - it didn't. I discovered that a good flinter is every bit as effective and deadly in the field as any single-shot iron-sighted modern rifle.

I built a few on my own in the early 70’s – they were pretty awful, but I was able to sell them for enough money to buy parts (bbl, wood, brass, etc) to build the next one. In an effort to accelerate the learning process, I served as a unpaid “apprentice” to a professional flintlock gunmaker for a few weeks - took vacation, parked my camper in his driveway and worked for free in his shop (attached to his house) all day – everything from sweeping floors to learning the colors when making a spring. Things began to improve after that and I made a bunch of longrifles.

Eventually, I got to the point where I didn’t enjoy the grunt work of gunmaking – roughing out a stock, laying a swamped bbl into the wood, etc, and as much as I enjoyed the finish work (relief carving, chasing and engraving). So, I started studying and making the much more elaborate German Jaeger rifles. As you may know, one man pretty much built the early longrifles – doing everything from forging the bbl to the final carving and engraving. But, in Europe, there were guilds – one group did the lock, another the bbl, still another the engraving, etc – so the guns were much more sophisticated.

Anyway I build Jaeger rifles these days. Generally, I find an original that I like and try to reproduce it exactly (except for a longer LOP to fit modern humans).

It’s been a while since I finished a rifle, but here are some pics of my most recent rifle – it takes me several years to build one – I can’t stand TV, so work on them at odd times when I get the urge, like at night. This is an exact copy of a rifle made circa 1690 – a very early Germanic rifle. Interesting because it has the sort of fluting on the buttstock that one see in more southern European guns of the period, but has the classic Germanic architecture. Also very elaborate finishing. For example, if you look very closely at the sideplate, you can see a little guy in 17th Century dress with this very rifle slug over his shoulder. I have a LOT of hours into that sideplate.

Rifle with Hirschfanger (period hunting sword):



View of handmade, engraved lock – note large, rounded lockplate and unbridled frizzen – both features of very early flintlocks:



.62 caliber business end. The rifle shown here is the upper one – the lower one is a simple military Jaeger like the one carried by one of my ancestors, who was a "Hessian" rifleman (Jaeger) captured at Saratoga in ’77 and brought here as a POW.



View of chased trigger guard – note figure holding this rifle:



Poor view of buttstock carving – again this is the upper rifle – the lower one is a simple military rifle.



Sideplate:



Detail of sideplate:



Butt tang



Rear ramrod thimble:



Front trigger guard tang:



At one time, I did quite a bit of flintlock rifle, pistol and musket competition – traveled all over the place doing this. In recent years, I have the time and means to follow my true life long passion – my beloved pointing dogs and upland wingshooting, so I don’t do much flintlock shooting any more. The one exception is that I still do use a longrifle for our local PA Dutch live turkey shoots each Fall – partly to keep up the traditions of my ancestors and partly because they really are superb offhand iron-sight target rifles that can pick off a turkey’s head at 100 yards with no problem.

Once I built a cool 16 bore English officer’s fusil (think a miniature Brown Bess with some fancy refinements) to use for bird hunting, but I discovered that: (i) it was not really any different in performance than any other single shot 16 gauge; and (ii) it was an enormous amount of hassle to deal with while trying to work active dogs, etc. Gave that up.

Regards,

Greg

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