doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com .012 off face

I don't know what process to use on the hook. I don't think TEG welder can get an smooth surface across the hook with out a lot of build up. I know there is a spray process but that is for fixing turbine shafts not little hooks. Any experience on this fix?

Pooch,
Replace the hinge pin with a little larger one and refit the barrels, is the "school solution".
Mike

Pooch
Do you have Ellis Browns Book? he has a process useing a shim fitted into the lug. I have used it and like that method better than welding. Of course the pin must be round for that method to work.

I put a strips from an aluminum can in the hook as shims to measure thickness. They came out round, it looks like the wear is on the hook. I used a micrometer on the shims and a feeler gage on the face/breech they checked out at .012. I swore I would never shim. But given such a close tolerance, I believe the shim will give a more precise fit then either turning the pin or welding.

How did you attach your shim to the hook?

I do not attach the shim to the hook, I just fit the piece over the hinge pin and leave it there.

I usually do not break these guns down for transport, and use a full length case.

If the gun needs to be disassembled, I am careful to keep an eye on the shim, most of the time it remains on the hinge pin.
Mike

Mike has it right-It doesn't need to be attached. Pretty sure we aren't talking a Purdey here, and if it really bugs you, a more permanent method can be attempted in the future. I tried soldering feeler gauge stock for a shim one time, but, feeler gauge stock is ground and hardened, and it split when it got to temp.
Might have been fine with plain old shim stock.


Best,
Ted

Hi again.
I have done this,and it works.


http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/VideoLibrary


Video nr. 4 ( Repairing a Remington 1900)

Regards Lennart

For shim material try "Starrett Feeler Stock" made by the L S Starrett Co., Athol, Mass.
It comes in all different thickness, can be cut to exact size with sissors and "glued" on the hook.
I have it in .001" to .016".
Bob Jurewicz

Is it possible to use something like Loktite to stick the shim on? If it would work it would hold the shim in place yet be removable if need be.

Great video, describes my situation to a tee. In my youth I worked in a machine shop, I hope it's like riding a bicycle. Tempering that spring looks tough.

Hi. Do�t forget to locktite both the hook and the chim and clean well, then press as on the video

Regards Lennart

Gnomon, the Midway video explains the use of Loctite. I much prefer the video method to any other.

thanx - I didn't look at it since I don't need to do this procedure. I should have figured the suggestion was obvious, tho.

Same here, I used the shim stock from brownells in .002 and used industrial Black loktite to secure it. Works great.

Have you asked your self why is it so much of face? Is it wear and tear , lack of maintenance or the wrong cartridges being used? Is there an underlying problem you have not yet discovered such as a loose lump or badly fitting joint pin ? Best get these checked before you do any work .

Every time this subject is discussed, someone mentions the fact that the recess in the lug may not be round, so the shimmed surface may not be round. My reply is "Well, what am I supposed to do about it?" I think for home made repairs, it should be assumed that both the recess and the pin are "round enough". If we want to make it rounder or better mated, just use a lot of smoke and round files. Or not.

I'd agree here. I've shimmed a few. Soldering the shim into place.
A .005/.006" shim at the very most is all I can recall ever using.
.002/.004" usually does it. That lets me refit it back on face with a little extra.

.012" off face to start with is a lot of room. Somethings up, or has been done to it already I'd think. Look it over closely

.012 off the face is excessive and unlikely the result of fair wear and tear! My concern would be that the action may have been bent [over stressed by the use of inappropriate ammunition.]Recommend for safety reasons that you check the action for cracks in particular at the corner junction of the water table and the vertical breech face and the barrel lumps; prior to undertaking any other work.

Checked. If the shim doesn't work. I'm out the cost of a shim and some locktite. I don't see the problem. I'm doing nothing that can't be fixed.

How about your hands if the gun should fail?

When you guys said 5 t0 6 thousands was more the norm I figured I'd better recheck so I starting putting in temporary shim material in the hook and then using the micrometer instead of using feeler gage barrel to fence. The needed shim thickness get the gun on face and .005 to .006 off the flats is about.004, which is very good news.

The broken ejector is not good news as it is Deeley patent ejector 1767 which I understand is a [censored] to work on. I can't understand how to take it apart to inspect it. Which is probably just as well. Right now the right barrel extract and the left barrel ejects. I may have to live with that for a while, but I would appreciate some recommendations for ejector work and an idea on how much this will cost.

The interior looks quite good. I believe it is older then I thought. Pre 1925 for sure, maybe pre WWI.

I think I'll get it back on face and shoot this year to see how I like the gun. Maybe a redo next year, a full redo is going to be expensive. Maybe one item a year is doable

004 is about the thickness of a sheet of typing paper. You can shim it with the paper to figure out some of the other issues prior to getting anything hot enough to solder.
I figured .012 was a mistake after seeing the photos-I don't think the dolls head would fit into the frame at .012 wear.
I'd likely disable the ejectors until I figured out what I had and what it needed. There are few times an ejector is really needed. Never, at my house.
You can approach these projects from the heart (usually ending up with more into it than it's worth) or, from the head, with just enough into the gun for satisfactory performance.

Best,
Ted

Wise words if only I would follow them. But the truth is I'm ready to deactivate the ejector but don't know how. I had a leak in my tool shed which ruined my micrometers, all I had left was one in mm. I must have fouled up the conversion calculations somewhere along the way.