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I think, lower the contrast. Make it look handled and patinated like the rest of the metal. Maybe add finer secondary fill into your scroll pattern to give it a bit more purpose. Just thoughts, thanks for showing it. Maybe a bit much, but nice display of wood options.

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Originally Posted By: craigd
Make it look handled and patinated like the rest of the metal.

If "handled" there will be nothing on the wood or the metal.

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I think it looks good, Mark, the work on the metal. And, if you like that stock, that is all that matters.
I'd like a little more information on dry point engraving please.
I'm not quite clear on how you do it, a graveur?
John Roberts is just offering his opinion, a bit too bluntly. others may have other opinion

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Originally Posted By: craigd
I think, lower the contrast. Make it look handled and patinated like the rest of the metal. Maybe add finer secondary fill into your scroll pattern to give it a bit more purpose. Just thoughts, thanks for showing it. Maybe a bit much, but nice display of wood options.


That is helpful. Thanks.

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Originally Posted By: Mike Bonner
I think it looks good, Mark, the work on the metal. And, if you like that stock, that is all that matters.
I'd like a little more information on dry point engraving please.
I'm not quite clear on how you do it, a graveur?
John Roberts is just offering his opinion, a bit too bluntly. others may have other opinion


Mike, dry point uses a sharp stylus in a drawing, scratching fashion, as opposed to a graver and hammer, which creates deep chiseled marks. Here's an example of a hand colored drypoint I did years ago, titled Fleur de Lion. (almost lifesize). You can see how it allows for minute, scratchy lines and gradations::



I really do appreciate the opinions. Reminds me of my critique sessions in college. I agree this butt enhancement is a bit heavy handed, and atypical from my usual work in that regard. I may even decide to strip and re-do it at some point. Or not.

Hammers Back,

Mark

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For stock repair I can maybe see it...just to doll a piece of wood up I can't.

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Based on all the input I've received here, if I do decide to strip and re-do, here's an enhancement I did on a Lancaster a while ago that might be about right for this old Lefever:



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Originally Posted By: HomelessjOe
For stock repair I can maybe see it...just to doll a piece of wood up I can't.


That's not an opinion I share, but thanks anyway.

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Mark
This is a gun I would be proud to hunt with!!
It is a wonderful adjunt to the the adventure
Well done, Well done
AND I LIKE the stock smile
Mike


USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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You have a typical Lefever that follows the "Lefever rule" exactly. Anything goes and if a customer asked the maker to put that type of wood on a gun it would be done. You scratching is very interesting. Another direction of engraving like the Baker style of etched engraving is different. It might look better i fyou darken it slightly to take away that high shine look.

I have a DS 12 with a burl walnut stock that would have looked at home on any high grade double of its day. How did a top selection blank end up on the cheapest grade gun? At first I thought it was a damaged blank but can find no sign of blemish or repair. Then considered an employee gun or a special order gun. Maybe some one did pay double for a DS with a great hunk of wood. If only the records remain so many of these open ended questions could be answered. How many odd Lefevers have we seen? Lefever are just like a box of chocolates and you never know what you will see or find inside or outside.

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