doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Repairing Top Lever that goes left

On your Boss, if the lever is to the left, you probably have excessive wear to the bolting. This can be addressed by having a new locking bolt made, or the orginal locking bolt tig or laser welded up and refit. Add this to gunmans reply and you should have good idea on what it'll take to make it right.

Any by the way..for what its worth...there is a place for "peening" in gunmaking/gunsmithing. For instance.. I know a handful of trained gunmakers who tighten forend irons by doing just that. Never say never.

Dustin

Buzz:
Despite all the "Expert advice" you have read here, I'd be circumspect. If the gun is tight, don't worry. If the gun is loose, I'd find a responsible double gunsmith to evaluate it. It won't be in your home town. I'd try JJ in Enid OK if I were you.

In Jack Rowe�s video he shows how to peen the bite to move the top lever to the right. Jack is no hack.

ken: your advise is the correct course. if it aint broke dont fix it. when it is broke, take to an expert for fixin.

Buzz,

I'd take Mr. Apperson's advice [I'd use an 's', but I alawys get castigated for it;-)] .. fast. Not quickly, FAST!

If your situation is from hinge pin wear there is a process known as 'plasma spray' that I believe is being utilized by a well known gunsith [K.E.; I can't spell] in LA. Perhaps Bill S. would care to send you a PM or post here about that. It is minimally invasive, when done/applied correctly and can be better than new.

Good advice indeed. Plasma spray does not produce the heat zone input that TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding does- I am always cautious when someone wants to TIG weld certain areas of double guns- as heat moves or transfers, and from the thicker mass of metal always towards the thinner mass- TIG welding to build up a top rib extension (LC Smith- Ithaca NID, AH Fox- and others) you want to remember that the rib extension is either brazed or silver soldered in place- depending on the maker and vintage of the gun- and excessive heat input can cause that braze or solder to migrate and loosen- and then you will have a real problem indeed.

tw & foxie: pray, do tell us mo bout dis plasma spray stuff...

wood hit hep mah aiken back?

or maybe ah shud jes go an google hit?

Wearing safety googles, face shield or a welding hood with appropriate numerical shaded safety lens is always a good idea when working with any of the welding processes- unless you want to become an instructor in the Stevie Wonder driving school!!

I would bet a lot that the pin is not the problem. It may be the bolt like Fusil mentioned or something else.

Also, I believe English shotguns were traditionally made to have the toplever center when the gun was closed (this isn't the case with all of them today). I think they did this with the way the bolt/spindle worked with each other.

If your 'smith doesn't know this stuff, get your gun away from him ASAP. All he'll do is mess it up and make more work for another gunsmith down the road.

And if the gun needs a new pin, put in a new 'friggin pin. You're talking about a Boss, not some Spanish thing or something like that. Fix it the right way. Best guns deserves to be treated in the best manner possible. Don't abuse your's with short cuts and second rate repairs.

OWD

Thank you all for your opinions. I am far from being a gunsmith and this thought of hammering on the lumps sorta made me shudder. I have read this peening can be a remedy but it seems diagnosing the problem first would be the best way to go. This gun seems tight on the action and shoots fine. I am going to send it to Ken Evursull in LA who has done work for me before.