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Joined: May 2010
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Steve,

If "the possum" isn't interested in buying your 9.3X72R brass and you decide you don't need it PM me and let me know, I'm interested in picking up some more ... depending on the price of course.

Raimey,

I must be missing something because I don't see the "musselshell" geometry that you are referring to; instead it looks like a rather conventional frame to me. Are you referring to the outlined crescent shaped, but still pretty much flush to the receiver body, geometry? If so I'm thinking that's just a decorative deal as it doesn't really provide any additional reinforcement to the frame.

Regards,

Buchseman

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Baumgarten:
As far as I know there weren't any embellishments on reinforced components that weren't an effort to disguise or distract your eye from the enhanced frame design, or whatever the case may be. It was an effort to make the sporting weapon more aesthetically pleasing. But I should have used an additional adjective such as mini to go with the musselshell addition. One sees the enhanced frame on many of the Hahn/Roux/Underlever drillings, such as those offered by F.W. Keler, as some have cracked giving them something of a black-eye. Mike Ford had brought it to my attention but the Hahn/Roux/Underlever drillings like this Monopol & others



http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=212401&page=1


F.W. Keler

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=241471#Post241471


have a larger reinforcement in the hingepin area. Neither may provide much additional reinforcement but I think that was the intent.

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse







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Buchseman: Consider that the brass was from Huntingtons, which still sells 9.3x72R brass for 98.00 plus change per 100 rounds. I ran it all through the 9x57 dies so it would have to be run through the 9.3 expander and then slightly fire-formed with the first shot. The dies are 9x72R, and good quality although of mystery maker. They came with a gun, and I ended up keeping them. I don't exactly know how to PM, but will list my cell phone number if it comes to it... Steve

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Steve,

Timing is everything. Last week I ordered 100 9.3X72R NORMA cases from Huntingtons to be used to make a bunch of 8X72R cases. I have to assume that your cases are NORMA as well but please confirm.

To send a PM just click on my handle in the upper left corner of this reply (in blue) and a shaded box will pop up with some options, one being "Send a PM".

Regards,

Buchseman

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Thanks a bunch for all the info, guys. I'm fascinated to learn the history involved.


Quote:
Have you attempted to chamber a 9.3X72R D cartridge?

I have loaded ammo on hand from Norma and RWS, and some custom brass formed (& turned) from .30-06 cases. All these fit perfectly into the chamber & it closes fine. I've read the factory stuff is for a type F chamber though; I don't know about a type D.

Quote:
Any chance the "EA" is "FA"?

I forgot to check over the weekend, but it could be. What would it mean if it is actually FA?

Quote:

Ford thinks the pre-rifling diameter marks is just the "9"mm and that the proofhouse tech felt like the plug gauge that would pass the whole length was a 9mm that day.

It definitely gets tighter towards the muzzle. That could be...

Quote:

Is there not a chance that it is a 9x72? I had one of those (and the 9.3 would not chamber).

I looked into that when I was thinking the groove diameter was exactly 9.0 mm. But now that I've taken more measurements, I don't think it is. The grooves left by the rifling cutter are semi octagonal, making it harder to figure out what the proper diameter is. I.E., what is the diameter of a stop sign? Do you measure across the flats or the corners? Here's a quick sketch to show what I mean...

9.3x72 R ammo does fit fine in my gun, as mentioned above.
I'll let Buchseman have first dibs on the brass, but if he doesn't take it all I'll keep you in mind- I'm just hesitant to invest in a bunch of stuff to go with this gun before I've actually got it shooting.

Buchseman-
That musselshell area does stick out from the rest of the frame slightly, but it's not nearly as big/prominent as on the Kessler example posted by ellenbr. My picture really doesn't show it well.

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Possum (the),

We should have known, you have Henry rifling which is best measured with a hole guage otherwise you have some math to do. It looks to me like you have a 9.3 and I'm guessing it was proofed for shooting lead bullets. Is there a bullet type stamp anywhere on the rifle barrel (such as Bl. for lead or K.m.G for Kupfer Mantel Geschoss - Copper Jacketed Bullet)?

Regards,

Buchseman

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No, I've looked everywhere for any indication of the bullet type, weight, etc., but don't see any of the usual markings you mentioned. Does the timeframe of manufacture provided by ellenbr give any clues?

I don't believe I have a hole gauge. And I'm working on this project with seriously limited funds. Right now, Steve's offer to double my money on the gun would be the "responsible" thing to do... but then I wouldn't have the Drilling I've been dreaming of for the past decade. frown

So, what kind of math are you talking about? How do I find the appropriate bullet size to use?

Last edited by the possum; 09/19/11 06:43 PM.
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Possum (the),

It just dawned on me that you have an even number of grooves so there isn't any math to do as long as you are measuring across the furthest distance between the points, something that is near to impossible to do if you have an odd number (that's where knowing one's trig or a hole guage comes in handy).



Regards,

Buchseman

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You could send a couple of the bore slugs to LBT (lead bullet technologies) and let them figure it out by making up EXACT bullets for your bore in hard antimony lead with copper base caps to load up yourself. Hawk could also swage some jacketed bullets for you...though, come to think of it you could end up having to bell the case mouth to load them without troubles in regards to the lead bullets. I agree that it would be useful to know the recommended projectile markings. And if they are Bl.G, then you should use lead anyway--don't despair; hard lead slugs with copper base caps shoot great and perform well at 9.3x72 velocities. It's not like you are going to run through hundreds of rounds shooting at gophers...
BTW, I don't want anyone to think I would take advantage of your situation, especially since you are unlikely to find a drilling under $200 ever again! The engraving can be touched up. Barrels can be rust blued (I do it myself!) and if the action is good and tight it can surely be redeemed. I am glad to see the old girl kept in action. LBT bullets have been found accurate in old double rifles that only had a trace of rifling left, a tight fit covering a multitude of sins. Good luck with it, but then again, the offer stands! Steve

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Buchseman, the brass is Norma, same as yours. We'll know soon if it is available or if I need to hang onto it, if you catch my drift...Steve

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