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Sidelock
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JayCee, hand massage is needed if you use crushed cockleshell with oil. This is method for filling the pores on stocks wink


Geno.
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Friends:
Salopian is the most wise voice here on slacum. The formula has been changed a bit over the years by Purdey. They used to sell it in tins, but no longer. And even they use it because..." they've always used it."

One thing more: According to the Purdey finisher I know, final rub-in application of the stuff involves an undisclosed element of human spit. Seriously.

Holland's and Westley's simply use Rapid Oil. Expertly applied.

Best, Kensal

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A few things I discovered over the years:

The final polish depends more on the degree of polishing of the wood BEFORE any oil etc is applied. If you take it to grit 400 it will be dull no matter what you use, if you polish to grit 1000 it will shine. The oil used is secondary to the final shine.

True oil may be excellent for wear. BUT, it robs walnut of its natural color, overlaying every piece of walnut with a nut brown hue which is not exactly pretty. Alkanet infused oils bring out a red hue which is just about right.

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RI shooter, all the information is in these threads or the links.
The wood does need to be finished very well BEFORE applying the oil, I actually 'Bone' my wood as a last step before applying the oil finish.
If you need a filler, use the wet slurry sanding operation.
Final coat will be PURE oil and spit 'bulled up' as we call it.

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Was it Dig H. or yourself, Pete, who has a recipe which adds plaster as a filler?

jack

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Hello Jack,

It was Dig. Here is what he shared:
I stand corrected: it was Pete/Salopian and not Dig.
Sor
ry.


"Slacum Oil

Here you go boys,
Purdey's London Finishing Oil
For Darkening, Filling & Polishing
All measures are in English (UK)
-1/2 pint of Raw Linseed Oil
-2 ozs of Plaster of Paris (Dental Quality)
-1/2 fluid oz of Butter of antimony
-1/2 Gill Spirits of Wine(2.5 fl. oz. of ethyl alcohol.
What it does I have no idea.)
-2 teaspoons of Vinegar
-1 teaspoon of Venice Turps.
You can leave out the Antimony if you don't want to darken the wood.
Leave out the Plaster if you don't need to fill the pores.
That's what is in Slacum Oil."


JC

Last edited by JayCee; 11/03/10 08:29 AM.

"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
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When I was commander of an Army Honor Guard, burying young men coming back from Viet Nam, I used a lot of spit on my Corcoran Cap Toe Jump Boots to work in the polish

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Salopian,

When you say you "Bone" the wood you mean with a piece of bone as we do in leather working etc?

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Presumably the vinegar in Slacum is to raise the acidity and speed up the oxidization, ie drying, of the oil? Any chemists around to help on that?

Drying of linseed or any other drying oil is subject to the old principle of volume proportion to surface area. The more surface area exposed the faster the drying, hence the advice to use the thinnest coats possible. I have never had problems with drying when using super thin coats spread by hand. They usuall dry overnight.

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Jaycee,
That recipe is one of mine given to me by a Purdey stocker.
Shotgunlover,
Yes you are correct on all your assumptions.

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