|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,479
Posts545,201
Members14,410
| |
Most Online1,335
Apr 27th, 2024
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Boxlock
|
OP
Boxlock
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3 |
Hello all:
I've owned a fair number of shotguns, rifles, pistols. Never owned a double of any kind and now have a nice model 21. Having learned my lessons in the past, I don't want to assemble the gun until I check around and get whatever advice I can from those who have experience with the "21". It's a super nice single trigger 20ga. made in 50's.
A couple questions right off the bat. I took the forearm off to clean the barrels. Looks like a system in the forearm supplies the action for the ejectors. Anything to be careful of putting the forearm back on? Also, the unlocking lever on the receiver locks to the right and is locked to the right. Can you guys please tell me the details of how the whole system operates and how to avoid any pitfalls when assembling / breaking down the gun? I don't want to learn anything the hard way with this gun. Thanks in advance for the help,
Pete
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496 |
PLB:
From your description, you should do nothing more to this gun than break it down for transport or basic cleaning. No slight intended. And the 21 needs little else unless grossly abused.
You are correct. The ejector mechanism is in the forearm. If it's not broke, don't fix it.
The rolling knurled wheel under the forearm unlocks the latch from the barrels. Roll the wheel with one thumb while you gently pull outward on the forearm with the other. It should come easily loose.
Next, grasp the barrels OVERHAND near the action, push the top lever right and open the gun. The barrels should turn off the action easily and render the gun into the three basic parts: buttstock, forearm and barrels.
Assemble carefully in reverse. You can't hurt much. It's a tough gun. But the NRA takedown description will give you more. Just don't consider stripping the gun to tiny bits. It's not necessary.
Best, Kensal
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,035 Likes: 47
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,035 Likes: 47 |
Just be certain to install or remove the forend with two hands, and ease the forend gently into position when installing.
It's easy to knock a piece of wood out of the forend if you let it snap on.
I lay the whole gun down on a towel, rib down, so I can control the forend assembly or disassembly with two hands and do things gently.
The gun is way more easily assembled if left cocked. You can leave it cocked for a hundred years, don't worry about it.
Grease the hinge and the hook, dab a little oil on the ejectors, and enjoy.
"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,205
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,205 |
When you put the forearm on, put it in place and crack the barrels open,just a little, then snap the forearm to the barrels. It is much easier this way. Much less pressure needs to be applied.
Ole Cowboy
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Boxlock
|
|
OP
Boxlock
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3 |
Guys:
Thanks a lot for the tips and advice. I appreciate it.
Pete
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 35
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 35 |
In my opinion, you should never try to put the forearm on the gun if the action is not cocked. I believe that doing so puts an undue amount of stress on the forearm lug and also the clip on the forearm iron.
Bob
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,737
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,737 |
Bob - Would you say this is also true for other doubles as well? That it's best to leave the action cocked when disassmebling and assenbling?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 121 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 121 Likes: 4 |
Per the Winchester Model 21 manual, you assemble with the hammers down. Apparently, Winchester preferred to have the tension off all springs when being stored for extended periods of time. Sorry for the poor scan.  That being said, I normally don't. Like stated above, it is much easier to attach the forearm with the hammers cocked. I have not tried Don's method, but I will. The only other sxs I have any experience with is the L C Smith. You definitely want the hammers cocked before attaching the forearm. In fact, if you forget, cock the hammers by one of several ways before you attempt to attach the forearm or you could break something.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
"Would you say this is also true for other doubles as well?"
I don't think there is a universal rule on this, but varies by make.
With a Lefever for instence it makes absolutely no difference whether the gun is cocked or uncocked in putting it back together. This applies to both extractor guns & ejector guns eith the in-frame ejectors (the vast majority of Lefever ejectors). I can't speak for the few with forend ejectors as I have never even seen one of these.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 803
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 803 |
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT lower the hammers before disassembling. The fore end will be extremely difficult to put back on, requiring considerable force, risking damage to the fore end if incorrectly done.
I did it once and never again.
Model 21's have been used for decades with the hammers cocked with no problems since those instructions were written.-Dick
|
|
|
|
|
