S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,511
Posts545,659
Members14,419
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,741 Likes: 97
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,741 Likes: 97 |
dare i say it? nahh...nobody cares anyway....
keep it simple and keep it safe...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,015
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,015 |
Ed, your job here is to STFU and take notes on how its done the CORRECT (caps are for your benifit) way !
Great job Tony and Doug,the LC of yours looks like its just came out of the factory,perfect !
Hillary For Prison 2018
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 5
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 5 |
Very nice work....now it looks like I'm out of a job.
You will find a lot of things will affect the colors, ratios of bone wood, temp of water, charcoal size, quench temp, time at temp etc etc etc.
I started doing CCH about 10 years ago, took me about a year; lots of quenches and several dozen turn of the century books on Case Hardening to figure out what was happening.
I would take mild steel and surface grind it dead flat, then measure warpage and depth of case at different quench temps & water temps.
Right now I pretty much have the Winchester and Marlin colors down pat, still working on the Colt & Parker colors.
Have Fun
V/R
Mike
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Hi, thanks for the comments. It's interesting to see how others do it. I'm quite new to this but very happy with how the greener came out. I'm doing the hammers and plates and forend metalwork on Wednesday...was thinking of bolting the plates to some 4mm plates to stop any warping..but not sure I need to.
Cheers T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Barrel Browner I'd also like to see that formula.
Cheers T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
Tony--
Bolt the lock plates to your solid 4mm plates, providing they are completely flat lock plates using the appropriately shouldered bolts, with the appropriate holes drilled in the 4mm plates for attachment from existing holes in the lock plates.........then load and pack tightly in the crucible....you don't want them to move....at all....use caution......PLUS, the 4mm plates will act as heat sinks and collect the heat and increase the heat/temperature -(larger mass)- "that is maintained" for the lock plates throughout the process and stability as you quench, and the colors will also be improved as a result........
Most actions should be assembled when loaded in the crucible with special fixtures (that you make) bolted in place to make one solid firm unit, which retains heat better as a larger solid mass (less the internals of course), therefore cannot move and the colors are enhanced as a result ......the single mass unit retains heat much better than single small pieces by themselves.......problems occur if the parts are not properly secured in this fashion.....
Mike:
Thank you sir....your work is outstanding and speaks well of your talent and attention to detail.....
I started doing my own CCH about 25 years ago and I am always learning......like you.....it takes a lot of effort and practice runs with test pieces every time you change formula's....but it is fun......and rewarding......
Best,
Doug
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Doug the sidelock (read backlock) plates are actually slightly curver up at the end so they'll be a little space at the back of these when bolted onto the plate...the majority of the plate will be flush but the ends will curl up a fraction...OK?
When I pack in then charcoal everything is tapped down solid it's like a single mass before it goes in...I thought that was the right thing to do to keep everything stable and I'm sure that helps with any warping/movement.
T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 168
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 168 |
With work like this, emphasis seems mainly on color, when do we hear about the hardening part? The receiver was dead soft after annealing, what hardness readings did you get after this work? What is the depth of carbon absorption? Too little is no good, if too deep the receiver is prone to cracking.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 667
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 667 |
I was also wondering, what was the case depth you are getting? Thanks, Craig
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
Several years ago I took sample pieces that I had completed to a close friend who does military aircraft testing ....the parts were tested and showed 1.2-1.5 mm surface depth hardening and I was informed that all had passed mil spec. S-6090A which is the military aircraft spec for low carbon steel hardening.......and that is good enough for me.........
I have also hardened some aircraft parts over the years and these parts require testing and certification before return to service (paper trail from a certified testing lab).....color is not on the list of importance....depth and quality is.......these parts are magnafluxed and red dye tested as well, before certification showing any imperfections.......
Doug
|
|
|
|
|