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Joined: Jul 2005
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To answer the title of the thread:

20 GA vs 28 GA IS THERE ALOT OF DIFFERENCE ?

In mass there is an 1/8oz. incrase.

In mass there is about a 17% increase.

If effective pattern diameter and range increase with the square root of the increase of pellets there is about an 8% increase in effective pattern area and an 8% increase in range.

If the effective range of a 28 gauge on Bobwhites is 30 yards then the effective range of a 20 gauge on Bobwhties is 32 yards.

I contend that gun fit, trigger pull, trigger creep, choke, and shot size have much more influence over effectiveness than the choice between between 28 gauge and 20 gauge.

Or, in other words, 6 of one or half a dozen of the other.

Best,

Mike

Last edited by AmarilloMike; 05/14/10 10:54 AM.


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Excellent post Mike. you did however omit one important point. In reality the 7/8os load in a 20ga is a lighter load than the 3/4oz load in the 28. Proportionate bore area (.615²/.550²) shows the 20 capable of handling a 25% heavier load in proportion to its bore. This would mean in reality if both were loaded to the same density you would have 28@3/4oz = 20@15/16oz or 28@1oz = 20@1¼oz. This would translate into an effective range increase of 12% rather than 8% if each is loaded to the same level.
It is also noted in the case of the 1¼oz 20 ga load this is put up in the 3" hull giving more room for better, more effecient wadding.


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The 3" 20 is frequently criticized. I've been more than pleased with a 3" 20 at 6 1/4 lbs and 1 1/4 oz of shot.

They tend to stay put when downed, and I like it when I don't have run.


"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
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I've shot quite a bit of the Holland & Holland Royal Game 28 gauge shells with 13/16oz of shot on the sporting clays course and on the skeet field. I've never hunted with a 28. I would think 28 gauge would be effective on birds like quail at short range but other than that I believe 28s are better for use on targets. Yes, some people use them for pheasants and grouse with success but I don't think that's the best application for 28 gauge. Conversely, the 20 gauge has quite a record as a bird getter.


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Despite all the cackle of the magic of the 28 gauge (hits harder than it should, etc.), there is a significant difference between it and the 20, IMO.

With the same shot charge - 3/4 oz - the 20 throws a better pattern, in my experience, than the 28. Go to 7/8 oz or 1 oz, and there's no contest. The 28 is pretty inefficient with the larger charges; the 20 is right at home. My favorite chukar load in the 20 is 1 oz of hard #7s, a beautifully patterning load. The 28 can't get close.

The big advantage transcends ballistics - the nice little guns scaled to the 28 are a delight. That said, I find my shooting falls off signficantly when gun weight goes below 6#, so my lightest guns weigh in right there - a weight that's very well suited to a 20 gauge.

The 28s cast a spell on us, no doubt. But let's not confuse that with logic...

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Originally Posted By: GF1
The 28s cast a spell on us, no doubt. But let's not confuse that with logic...


The logical people are in the drive up at Popeye's Fried Chicken waiting to pick up their chicken strips. Once we drop out of the drive up line, go home and load up four or five turdhounds, drive 170 miles round trip, walk 10 hours, all in pursuit of 12 quail or about 1-1/2 pounds of usable meat, we have ceased being logical.

Counting lease, dog first cost and training and maintenance, and truck mileage it works out to about $180 per pound.

I can carry the most extremely rational configuration of gun and cartridge and it still doesn't make bird hunting a rational pursuit.

Originally Posted By: 2-piper
It is also noted in the case of the 1¼oz 20 ga load this is put up in the 3" hull giving more room for better, more effecient wadding.


And shooting 1-1/4 oz out of a 20 gauge gamegun is heresy; 28 gauge is for 3/4oz, 20 gauge is for 7/8oz, 16 gauge is for 1oz, 12 gauge is for 1-1/8oz, and 10 gauge is for 1-1/4oz. Shame on you! Next thing we know you will be posting pictures of your 20 gauge Ithaca Flues with extended Briley's and an adjustable comb. Seek treatment before it is too late. grin

But it is fun discussing the subject and thanks for your post.

Best,

Mike

Last edited by AmarilloMike; 05/15/10 03:33 PM.


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The only reason I shoot an ounce and a quarter 20 is because I can't shoot an ounce and a half. smirk

Get some lead in the air.


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Originally Posted By: Shotgunjones
1-1/4 oz out of a 20 gauge gamegun



Ouch!


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Wow! All this talk about 1.25 oz 20s and 1 oz 28s. How cruel to confuse us with the fact that 1 oz 20s are as "square" as 3/4 oz 28s. What nerve. The square load police are keeping track of your ISPs.

Let this stuff slide and who can say how low we will sink. The unmentionable 3/4 oz .410 may sneak in through the back door. The horror!

Sam

BTW, B&P announced a 15/16 oz 1300ish fps 28 - supposed to be available soon. Now I'm just sayin'.....doesn't mean I'm on the waiting list......

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My understanding is that the same shot and powder charge fired from a 12, 20, and 28 gauge will produce more recoil on the smaller diameter barreled gun. Am I mistaken on that? So why shoot the 28 with 1 ounce loads unless your only concern is the weight of the gun? Plus the 28s usually weigh less to begin with so that would also increase the felt recoil. Although I have never shot dove, I would think shooting a lot of 1 ounce loads through a 28 could cause some pretty good bruises after a while.

I have only shot a 28 a few times but have often thought about purchasing one for those long walks while grouse hunting. Are they generally that much lighter and quicker handling than 20's or should I just stick with my trusty Stevens 5100?


Tom C

�There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.�
Aldo Leopold
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