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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 196
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 196 |
Some great input here - thank you. I use fibre wads for virtually all of my shooting so less of a concern there.
As regards Teague or Briley choking, I may well be mistaken here, but have always been wary of these options as I thought they required some significant lapping out of barrel thickness to accommodate them and/or the incorporation of screw threads in the end of the barrel?? Not something I am keen on doing to a lovely set of old Damascus barrels, especially on a waterfowling gun?
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,092 Likes: 13 |
Steve,
I stand corrected that it is 10 thou per wall. Not thinking this morning.
I have a Birmingham 12 bore, maybe 1880 with jug chokes that I measure as modified and it is very effective on long clays out to 50 yards. Those of you who have been to rock Mt Sporting clays in PA know the birds that come off the cliff and that is where this gun excels with 15/16 oz., PB, CB wads in Rem hulls. I use plastic wads with no ill effect.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 190
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 190 |
Some great input here - thank you. I use fibre wads for virtually all of my shooting so less of a concern there.
As regards Teague or Briley choking, I may well be mistaken here, but have always been wary of these options as I thought they required some significant lapping out of barrel thickness to accommodate them and/or the incorporation of screw threads in the end of the barrel?? Not something I am keen on doing to a lovely set of old Damascus barrels, especially on a waterfowling gun? With "Thin Wall" chokes may not always be a big problem. FWIW,the muzzles on my Skimin and Wood were pretty much "butchered" off-center, with one side of the muzzles being quite a bit thinner than the other. Briley expressed concern but, in the end, they "got 'er duuun"!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
I jug choked a muzzleloading trap gun I built [ about 35 yrs. ago ] that worked just fine. And now have done a Remington 1894 F grade trap gun that only had IC in the right barrel when I bought it. It now has IM and breaks them just great. A friend had a Darne SxS that came with jug chokes. Paul
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
Some great input here - thank you. I use fibre wads for virtually all of my shooting so less of a concern there.
As regards Teague or Briley choking, I may well be mistaken here, but have always been wary of these options as I thought they required some significant lapping out of barrel thickness to accommodate them and/or the incorporation of screw threads in the end of the barrel?? Not something I am keen on doing to a lovely set of old Damascus barrels, especially on a waterfowling gun? I would also be wary of threading Damascus barrels. Mike Orlen told me that it was not a good idea, IHO. The steel is too soft and the composition too variable to trust fine threading. That makes perfect sense to me. I would not hesitate to jug choke one, though, assuming wall thickness was adequate. Pressure is pretty low at the muzzle, anyway. Read what you can by V. M. Starr about it. I also have an article saved on making a simple jug choking tool for DIY'ers. I'd be happy to email a copy to anyone who sends me a direct e-mail. My address is in my profile. Don't waste time with PMs.
> Jim Legg <
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 775 |
Unless Briley has changed the style of their choke threads, they aren't fine V threads like are used on many choke tubes. They are a coarse, but shallow square thread that should hold in either Damascus or steel.
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