doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Use of Belgian Blue for Damascus

JDW yes your right but the rust blue mixes are usually a lot stronger than the browns I was just experimenting to see how the damascus would react, I love the black and white finish you guys have and I am trying to find a simple way of doing it!!

Have you checked this out BB

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2hmx7_194gwgwmqdh

I'm afraid there is no simple way, but I'd like to cut a couple corners with the express blue.

I has found one recipe 'logwood for barrels' in one book from 1926.
Its for fluid barrels, not damascus.
First of all traditional rust bluing 10-12 times using Fe2SO4 * 7H2O (ferrous sulphate, green crystals) and FeCl2 (iron chloride 1 1/2) solution. The final color dark chocolate with blue nuance.
Then 1,8 liter of spring water, 38.4 grams of logwood extract, 0.2 grams ferrous sulphate. Heat solution till boiling and put barrels in solution for 10 minutes.
The final color dark blue.

barrel browner, I tried sending you an email, would not go through to that address, then tried sending a PM, that didn't work either. If you want to send me your email address, mine is jdavidw1@comcast.net

Thanks Geno, I thougt is was only for non Damascus barrels. Dr. Gaddy mentioned about using it, stated amount and also used glass as an indicator for correct mixture.

Forget about trying a express blue for finishing composite barrels. I have done lots of experimening and it doesn't work. They always come out blotchy and inconsistent.

Tradional rust bluing is the only(jmho)method to finishing composite barrels.

Tom Flanigan's method is very accurate. Only a few points i wouldn't agree with, but who knows i could be wrong too.

Also i wouldn't waist my time with logwood powder. Get the chips/shaving from Aurora Silk.

Travis: I'd be most happy to make an addendum to Tom's tutorial if you have some pointers that might help someone. You're doing great work also.
revdoc2@cox.net

I guess my question has been answered. Using logwood for fluid steel barrrels makes complete sense.

Drew.......thanks!
However, no addendum is needed to Tom's tutorial. He does outstanding work and has freely given advice on composite refinishing.

What i like to do is, etch after each rusting. This keeps everything consistent and neutral. I think of it as builing one layer at a time. I don't boil in logwood until i get the black i'm seeking.

jdw my email is stevensandjohnson@talktalk.net